Krug goes Oenotheque

Many Grande Marque Champagne houses are rightly proud of their R.D. or Oenotheque late release brands and publish disgorgement dates clearly on back labels. But historically it's always been impossible to get anyone at Krug to give you even an inkling of an idea as to when any one of their various Champagnes, most notably Grande Cuvée, might have been disgorged. Some years ago I listened incredulously to a senior member of the family declare that any bottle of Krug Grande Cuvée of any age found in any part of the world would always taste the same! So as you can imagine, I nearly choked on my Clicquot when I was then told openly that the Grande Cuvée in question was disgorged back in 2006 and that this might be useful information as a "selling tool"! Well we have been suggesting the very thing to Krug for years until blue in the face so I couldn't resist a wry chuckle.

Well it took a few weeks to get hold of a sample and we opened it today. Wow, what a difference a few years bottle age can make! The champagne had a vivid deep golden colour and a huge smoky intense rich bouquet packed with truffle, blood orange and citrusy fruits. Due to fermentation in small Burgundian-style oak casks and the use of very mature reserve wines in the "multi-vintage" blend, Grande Cuvée's style is always "masculine" and full bodied but this wine had much more power and intensity than a recent release and was immediately reminiscent of a great mature Krug vintage with mushrooms, wood smoke and exotic sweetness of ripe fruit; real depth, complexity and length. You'd challenge anyone being served this wine blind to call it as a non-vintage, this is very serious stuff. 

source: Tom Hudson


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