his years ‘Nordic Sommelier Magnum Dinner’ took place at Djuret in Stockholms Gamla Stan. Björnstierne brought along an old time favorite for his sommelier friends to enjoy …
1990 DOM PÉRIGNON ‘CUVÉE DOM PÉRIGNON OENOTHÈQUE’ | Epernay | Champagne | France | Dom Pérignon | 50PN 50CH | RJpoints 94(96)
TASTING NOTE ‘For several years I’ve run into late disgorged versions of older vintages of Dom Pérignon, with half the dosage and a few years of bottle aging after disgorging. The date of disgorging has, in exemplary fashion, been stated on the back of the label. Now Richard Geoffroy has tired of the constant questions about these wines and decided to check the release of these Champagnes himself—in order to make sure that they are absolutely at their peak when the customer enjoys the wine. The label is impressive, with a black background and classic “Dom” shape. The wines are a kind of Dom Pérignon R. D. Personally, I think that Dom Pérignon—with its toasted, reductive style—is better suited as a late disgorged wine than Bollinger’s oxidative, beefy Champagnes. The autolytic mushroom-smelling character is never very intrusive with Dom Pérignon. Strangely enough, this wine tasted slightly coarser than the normally disgorged version. Briliant in magnum!’
‘Very youthful and elegant with typical Dom Pérignon finesse. It will be a pleasure to follow the internal development of the ’88 and ’90. A great debut for Richard Geoffroy! Seductively tasty coffee roasted with silky smoothness and uniform harmonious creamy elegance. Larger and more beautiful than the regular bottling. Toasty coffee aromas in magnum, and like a great Chablis grand cru in regular bottle. Absolutely lovely on the magnum and pure magic together with avocado cream and caviar.‘
