Björnstierne – #thechampagnesommelier – had the pleasure to meet old time friend Rodolphe Peters from Champagne Pierre Peters in Le Mesnil-sûr-Oger the other night at restaurang Operakällaren in Stockholm.
RODOLPHE PETERS ON LÉS CHÉTILLONS ‘This is the name of our special vintage which refers to a beautiful ‘lieu-dit’, a place found in the Grand Cru village of le Mesnil-sûr-Oger. We own three plots of old vines (aged over 45 years), acquired in 1930. Each parcel is vinified separately and blended to produce a single vineyard vintage. All the power and the minerality of the Mesnil’s calcareous soil is expressed in this wine produced since 1971. Its reputation has surpassed our borders and even Michael Edwards himself describes Les Chétillons as ‘one of the most beautiful pieces of land of Champagne.’
To be able to welcome a champenois to Stockholm in it’s prime is fantastic! It’s always a great pleasure to eat Chef Stefano Catenaccis champagne-friendly food.
THE MENU
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Scalllop from Fröya, cucumber from Gotland & ramsom cream
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Grilled Turbot, aspragus, baked oyster, oyster beurre blancs & chive oil
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Spring chicken, wild aspragus & morel sauce
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Champagne mousse, rhubarb sorbet & candied almonds
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THE CHAMPAGNES
mv Pierre Peters ‘Cuvée de Réserve’
#thechampagnesommelier TASTING NOTE ‘We started with ‘Cuvée de Réserve’ by Jéroboam. Straight 2010 vintage. Sadly, the bottle variation is great – or shall I call it the variation in maturity? The quality is always high, but some mature examples rise above the rest with their toasty Mesnil character and full-bodied creaminess. On certain occasions there is also a smoky trait present, and always small, hard pears as an under note. In this case the purity was sensationell & the underlig riciness was really apetizing.’ 88[90]p
mv Pierre Peters ‘Extra Brut’
#thechampagnesommelier TASTING NOTE ‘Single year priciplet based on the 2011 vintage. From 4 parcells in Le Mesnil, Oger, Cramant & Avize. Four grammes of sugar. More apple aroma than in the ordinary standard champagne. Crispy without being exactly hard. Loses saffron and citrus unfortunately when the dosage is so small. A dry-as-dust finish.’ 85[88]p
2010 Pierre Peters ‘l’Esprit’
#thechampagnesommelier TASTING NOTE ‘Same DNA as ‘Cuvée de Réserve’. Some years it will be ‘l’Espirit’ & some years ‘Cuvée de Réserve’. Four grammes of sugar. A slow developer, beautiful, and stylish with massive Chardonnay & classical struktur for the future.’ 83[90]p
2009 Pierre Peters ‘l’Esprit’
#thechampagnesommelier TASTING NOTE ‘Warmer year that shows more of ripa fruit, toast and a chalky tight expresshon on the same time.’ 82[88]p
mv Pierre Peters ‘Rosé for Albane’
#thechampagnesommelier TASTING NOTE ‘A new one that left the drawing board in ’07. Mix of blanded rosé & rosé de saignée. The Pinot Meunier comes from Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy in Aÿ. I do not understand why you have to destroy nice Chardonnay with Pinot Meunier from Cumières. A candy bag lacking real class.’ 75[79]p
2008 Pierre Peters ‘Les Chètillons’
#thechampagnesommelier TASTING NOTE ‘One of the most obvious terroir-wines you may encounter. In my mind’s taste-world the character of this wine is dark chocolate fudge that can go towards the lighter enlightened creaminess occasionally. While the fruit can go towards stringency, but always a intense lime, usually tangerine lozenges and in warm vintages, apricot jam. Minerality is always recognizable chalky, but with a varying intensity of padding. Let’s see if we are as impressed as Robert Parker, who gave the vintage 99 points! Difficult to judge at first. The intensity in the apple-flavored aromas is astonishing, as well as the cracklingly fresh acidity. I think that many who meet the wine for the first time could be a bit dissapointed because of its lightness and sht start. But if you pay close attention this is an extraordinary beauty in its youth. Put it down deep in the cellar! This wine will be one of the classical ‘Lés Chétillons’! I’m in love!’ 92[98]p
2007 Pierre Peters ‘Les Chètillons’
#thechampagnesommelier TASTING NOTE ‘More classic than the more open 2006. Here I can see the typical straight line of developement right from the start. Here I am! Another ‘Lés Chétillons’ i all its prime!’ 88[92]p
1997 Pierre Peters ‘Lés Chétillons Œinothèque’
#thechampagnesommelier TASTING NOTE ‘Straight from the Peters cellars. This ’07 is in it’s perfect window at the moment. Tasty and delicious. Great drinking now!’ 94[94]p
1995 Pierre Peters ‘Lés Chétillons Œinothèque’
#thechampagnesommelier TASTING NOTE ‘Straight from the Peters cellars. Named ‘Cuvée Speciale’ its release. Difficult to judge at first. The intensity in the apple-flavored aromas is astonishing, as well as the cracklingly fresh acidity. Put down in the cellar! If you have the opportunity, buy the wine in a few years’ time, to gain a little extra needed autolytic character. Half a year later the subtle wine will have adopted beautiful aromas that remind one of a high-class, featherlight Montrachet made in a stainless-steel vat.’ 95[96]p
mv Pierre Peters ‘Réserve Oubliée’
#thechampagnesommelier TASTING NOTE ‘This champagne was originally made for the Swedish market and the Swedish importers wine club. Nowadays it’s sold to three star restaurants all over the world. The cuvée is made out of Pierre Peters Perpetual from vintages down to 1988, with the base from 2008.’ 90[90]p
mv Pierre Peters ‘l’Étonnant Monsieur Victor’ Edition MK.09
#thechampagnesommelier TASTING NOTE ‘L’Étonnant Mr. Victor’, which is a blend composed of the best tank of the year from Lés Chétillons and the best tank of the house’s perpetual Réserve, usually 50/50. An art label created by ‘Victor’ who is the son of Rodolphe. The MK series will be released in sex different editions. The wines will be launched between 2016 & 2022 under the names MK.09, MK.10, MK11, Mk.12, MK13, Mk14. This is a cuvée of the best Perpetual Réserve vat and the best Vin Clairs vat. Aged under cork and disgorged after 5 years. The wine boasts impressive depth and lenght. The price i twice of ‘Lés Chétillons’. 1 110 bottles made, base year 2009. The wine is potentially magnicent.’ 92[94]p
2000 Pierre Peters ‘Lés Chétillons Œinothèque’
#thechampagnesommelier TASTING NOTE ‘In the regular vintage the wine was a bit young and shy from start. But th eterroir character was there and some floral essence of fudge round the corner. Now ad some more riciness and depth. Text book version of how an Œinothèque should develop.’ 93[96]p
RJ ON PIERRE PETERS The Peter’s family originally came from Luxembourg before Pierre sittled down in Le Mesnil. The ever smiling and incredibly skillful François Peters possesses 19 hetares. Of which 12 hectares is located in the best parts of Le Mesnill, for years, these grapes was included from old vines in Les Chétillon in vintage wine, but now it’s a Cuvée Spéciale the grapes only from this unique location.
The enthusiasm of this wine all over he world is very large before anyone even had the opportunity to taste a mature bottle. Mesnil wines takes a long time to mature, but the champagne from Peters offers from the start an accessible fruitiness reminiscent of mandarin and a large portion of sweet toffee and nytt aromas. With increasing age, they are majestic and deep as wells, filled with coffee and walnut flavor and a volatile, vibrant exotic fruitiness.
OUTRO ‘… And at some later point there will be a wine released in honor of the 100th anniversary of the first vintage released by Camille Péters, Rodolphe’s great grandfather. It will combine many vintages, and many of them are venerable. The backstory is extremely moving, and the wine will probably be legendary! Can’t wait!‘
