Richard Juhlin has tasted the new release of the classic Comtesse Marie de France.
Estimated reading time: 2 minutes
Paul Bara
★★★★
Paul Bara is allready a legend in Champagne. He took over the firm as a teenager sixty years ago and remembered every vintage in perfect detail. He belonged to the sixth generation to run the company since it was founded in 1833. Many major Champagne houses have approached Bara over the years to try to buy the thirty exceptional locations he controls from 11 hectares in the village. The average age of the vines is around thirty-five years, but those that produce the vintage wines are over forty. With new people at the helm Bara is still the most quality-obsessed grower in Bouzy.
Only the first pressing is used, the wines are aged for at least four years in the cold cellar, and the yield is maintained at the lowest possible level. Despite the traditional methods, Bara’s wines have a very elegant fruitiness, which is unique in Bouzy. It is incomprehensible that he used to be best known for his red wine when his Champagne is of world class. His ’59 was hailed as the best Blanc de Noirs at the Millennium Tasting. The wines are still great. Comtesse Marie de France is the gem to search for. Todays winemaker is Christian Forget.
2012 Paul Bara ‘Comtesse Marie de France’
100 pn
TASTIN G NOTE ‘Firmans underbara blanc de noirs från de bästa druvorna i Bouzy. Så underbart harmonisk och gräddigt njutbar redan. Fylld av prunkande röd frukt i grädde med nötkola och nougatdrapering. Mineralitet och stringens ligger lite gömd i nuläget men finns där under ytan. Oerhörd koncentration och enhetlig sirapsartad textur. Jag älskar vinet nu, men vet hur spännande det blir med mer mörka höstpräglade skogsaromer och animalisk genklang så köp en låda och drick en flaska vart annat år.’
[91]94p
