Legendary restaurant critic JJ Gill was known for his sharp prose, detailed descriptions, and a deep love for the nuances of Swedish cuisine. If he were to write a review of PM & Vänner in Växjö, one of Sweden’s most celebrated restaurants, it might go something like this. [read the full champagne story]
Estimated reading time: 9 minutes
A Glade in the Gastronomic Forest of Småland
Stepping into PM & Vänner is like stepping out of Växjö and into a culinary fairytale that caresses the soul with flavors from Småland’s deep forests, pristine lakes, and weathered landscapes. This is not just a restaurant; it’s a manifesto of the region’s rich nature and unyielding spirit.
The Atmosphere – Like Walking Barefoot in a Freshly Mown Field
The space is bright, airy, yet cozy. The walls exude a calmness as if they were bathed in the misty Småland morning, while wooden details and natural tones evoke the nearby forests where the pines stand tall and steady. This isn’t luxury in the most opulent sense – instead, it’s a subtle reminder of nature’s own richness. Every detail, from the lighting to the table settings, seems chosen with care to place the guest in the right frame of mind.
« The Menu – A Tribute to Småland’s Forests, Lakes, and Meadows »
The menu at PM & Vänner is a gastronomic journey in itself, a well-crafted narrative where each dish represents a chapter in the region’s culinary identity. The three pillars – forest, lake, and meadow – form the restaurant’s philosophy, conveyed with such precision that it feels as if the dishes speak their own language. There’s no place here for superficial decadence; this is food with a soul.
This specific evening was dedicated to the launch of Charles Heidsieck ‘Blanc de Millénaires’ 2014 and CEO Stephen Leroux and the team from Provinum Sweden served some sensational reference champagnes as well!
Provinum is an importer in Sweden that works completely integrated with high end gastronomy wine & food. They work together with their sister company, Werner’s Gourmetservice. Today, Provinum has a large assortment of wines with energy and vitality that represent their origin and terroir. The portfolio includes everything from big brands to small niche producers from around the world. All with a common thread – they are suited for gastronomy. The passion and target is to find the great taste sensations and to contribute with this knowledge all the way to the end consumer, whether it’s at a restaurant, at home or in the air.
The evening begins with a quartet of amuse-bouches that lands softly, like a gentle Småland rain – a subtle start that piques curiosity. The flavor is both rustic and refined, a balance reflecting the chef’s deep respect for the ingredients.
« Apple, oyster emulsion and celery »
« Cucumber soup, dill and elderflower »
« Rhymed roach, smoked emulsion, elderberry capers »
« Caviar from Strömsnäsbruk with walnuts from Kristianstad »
Next comes Crayfish from Lake Örken with zucchini and cantaloupe melon, tasting like an evening by one of Småland’s clear lakes, where the salt from the water and the scent of the forest blend into a harmony that is almost poetic. Paired with a world class Blanc de Blancs, the dish rises to new heights, the wine’s fruitiness complementing the rich flavors.
The main course – Rooster from Stackvallen Farm with carrot, sage and red currants from the gardens – is a masterpiece. The meat is so tender it melts upon touch, while the earthy tones of the sage tie everything together with a deep, almost mystical resonance. The accompaniments are as much a part of the experience as the main components: a wine jus so rich it leaves you entranced, and a carrot purée so smooth it resembles fluffy clouds.
The Wine List – A Treasure from the Depths of the Cellar
The wine list is as impressive as the food. It features bottles from the world’s most respected vineyards, but what truly stands out is the remarkable selection of Swedish wines. The combination of local wines and European classics creates an experience where each glass feels like a thoughtfully curated part of the meal.
[PM & Vänner – the wine list – july’2024]
Comments on the wine list;
- Marc Almert – The French would describe the majority of this list as ‘prêt à boire’, ready to drink. My sommelier heart beats faster when I see so many verticals of regions not only in Europe, but also from overseas. Definitely one of the most consistent lists we see with both depth and breadth, highlighting dedication and passion of sommelier teams for now thirty years! About the Champagne selection, Marc says: A wonderful champagne list covering both grandes marques as well as small grower champagnes. Fascinating verticals enabling to enjoy a mature champagne – even in Magnum! Hopefully they will soon also add sparkling wines from other regions to add even more variation!‘
- Arvid Rosengren – ‘The winning list is a temple of Champagne. They have all the fancy classics at a great price point, but also a lot of the newer producers, Arvid says when PM & Vänner won Best Sparkling Wine List.‘
- Julie Dupouy-Young – ‘This wine list offers not only an incredible collection of wines from Piemonte featuring many classical labels but also put in the spotlight less known appellations and grape varieties from the rest of Italy. This list can only be born from true care and passion.’
- Rajat Parr – ‘PM & Vänner has one of the deepest Rhône lists in the world. The prices are worth making a detour to the restaurant, says jury member Rajat Parr, sommelier, winemaker and author about PM & Vänners Rhône selection.‘
The Wine Cellar – An impressive collection of 6,300 references & 20,000 bottles in total
It’s not one of those romantic, candlelit limestone cellars in France, where rare bottles are adorned with decades-old dust. No — the PM wine archive is all about practicality, substance, and function. As frequent wine purchases began to outgrow the previous cellar space, this impressive collection was relocated to a building that once served as the local bank’s archive.
What makes the PM wine archive truly unique is its efficient design, featuring moveable shelves on rails, a modern touch that complements its remarkable, world-class collection. When this venture began in 2006, the goal was clear: to assemble a collection of the world’s greatest wines. And this bold vision extends beyond just the most famous and expensive labels.
In fact, the cellar showcases small verticals from emerging winemakers in lesser-known regions, sitting side by side with prestigious names like Cheval Blanc and La Tâche.
For the PM wine team, a “great wine of the world” is defined by its ability to age, evolve, and transform over at least ten years. It must express a strong sense of terroir, whether crafted in a traditional or avant-garde style.
The collection includes bottles of all sizes, from half-bottles to magnums, jeroboams, and larger formats, offering wines at various stages of maturity— from the vibrant energy of youth to the silky complexity of age. Each evening, the sommeliers open rare and exceptional bottles, and the Menu Grand Vin allows guests to embark on a wine-driven culinary journey, where the dishes are crafted to complement the wines, rather than the other way around.
With over 6,000+ different wines, the PM wine archive is a dynamic treasure trove, constantly evolving. It’s a contemporary collection that reflects the pulse of the global wine scene, while remaining deeply rooted in the traditions of wine history.
The Service – A Dream in Discreet Perfection
The service at PM & Vänner is what you would expect from a restaurant of this caliber – discreet, yet ever-present. The staff is knowledgeable and passionate, speaking of each dish as if they themselves had handpicked the ingredients. This closeness and care ensure that the experience never feels pretentious, despite the high level of sophistication. It’s all about a love for craftsmanship and a desire to share that with every guest.
Final Thoughts – A Småland Euphoria
PM & Vänner is not just a restaurant – it’s a destination for those seeking something beyond the ordinary. You’re not just treated to a meal here; you embark on a journey into the heart of Småland. As I leave the restaurant, satisfied and slightly euphoric, it’s with a feeling that I’ve tasted something genuine, something deeply rooted in the Småland soil.
An evening at PM & Vänner is like standing in a glade in the Småland forest – surrounded by nature’s bounty, with scents, flavors, and emotions wrapping around you like a warm blanket.
Gill would likely have woven his personal style and a strong connection to the essence of the place into such a review, always balancing lyrical prose with a genuine love for the culinary craft. It was lovely walking in his foot steps for an evening!
Växjö, 9th of September
