This week Richard Juhlin went to the Italien island of Ischia. [read the full champagne story]
Dom Pérignon is, of course, the flagship despite the fact that they try to present it as a brand of its own. The first vintage of the world’s most famous wine was 1921. A lesser-known fact is that all of Dom Pérignon’s vintages up to 1943 were actually regular Moët vintages that were transferred by transversage to replicas of eighteenth-century bottles. The ’21 is without doubt the firm’s greatest vintage Champagne. The greatest Dom Pérignon, on the other hand, is more difficult to pin down. Most would probably put their money on the ’61, though personally I am very fond of the ’64 and nowadays also for the ’76.
2015 Dom Pérignon ‘Cuvée Dom Perignon’
95p Richard Juhlin rasting
Blend Cuvée Style Brut Dosage 4.5%
PN 51 PM 0 CH 49
Tasting Note ‘From the dry and hot year 2015, of course, the genius Vincent Chaperon manages to escape the vintage’s excess clarity and shortcomings. With the world’s largest quality vineyards in the mosaic, he and his team carefully balance and carefully consider every detail. Here, it is important to create balance and harmony with a higher percentage of mineral-driven and cooler locations as a cornerstone. The natural sweetness of the grapes also required a slightly lower dosage to preserve the clarity and evidence of each instrument’s contribution to the well-tuned symphonic experience created. They should also be commended for not being tempted by the possibility of making a fully mature and generously matured wine from scratch, even though nightclubs and party-hungry consumers would surely have praised the wine even more if that was the case.
No, here there is a nice restraint and mouth-watering mineral saltiness in the background throughout the taste journey. The aromas are intense with exquisite balance between roasted coffee and chocolate notes intertwined with lime and jasmine and both yellow and green showy juicy fruits. The natural fruit is impressive in its strength and purity, but I am probably most impressed by how clear the Dom Pérignon character is and how excited I am when I think about how nicely this vintage will also develop both in private cellars and in Épernay for to one day be presented in its most beautiful form under the P2 and P3 label. At the moment, I just have to recommend that you serve the champagne with a classic blini with sour cream and a spoonful of ultra black caviar. The saltiness of the caviar highlights the richness of detail in the champagne in an outstanding way.’