Listen to the podcast – The wine list – episode 1 – on Guide Michelin restaurant in Stockholm Adam/Albin. [read the full champagne story]
Estimated reading time: 6 minutes
The pod cast – The wine list
episode 1.0
Adam/Albin
★
Stockholm
Adam/Albin is a celebrated restaurant located in Stockholm, Sweden, known for its sophisticated take on Nordic cuisine and exceptional attention to detail. The restaurant is the brainchild of chefs Adam Dahlberg and Albin Wessman, who combined their culinary expertise and shared vision to create a fine dining experience that balances traditional Swedish flavors with innovative techniques and global influences. Opened in 2016, Adam/Albin quickly garnered acclaim for its high standards in food and service, establishing itself as one of Stockholm’s top dining destinations.
Central to the Adam/Albin experience is its wine program, curated by Head Sommelier Sören Polonius. Polonius is renowned in the world of sommeliers for his discerning palate, deep knowledge of wines, and innovative approach to pairing wines with modern Nordic cuisine.
His approach to wine selection and pairing has become a defining element of Adam/Albin’s dining experience, enhancing the flavors of each dish while respecting the overall ethos of the restaurant.
Culinary Philosophy of Adam/Albin
Adam Dahlberg and Albin Wessman are both alumni of prestigious restaurants and bring a wealth of experience and creativity to their kitchen. Their approach is anchored in the principles of New Nordic cuisine but isn’t confined to it. At Adam/Albin, they work with a refined, seasonal menu that celebrates the best ingredients Scandinavia has to offer, incorporating influences from Japan, France, and beyond. The chefs focus on harmonious flavors and precise technique, presenting dishes that are beautifully minimalistic and elegantly plated.
The restaurant’s commitment to sustainability and quality is reflected in the relationships they have with local farmers and suppliers.
Seasonal ingredients and fresh, high-quality produce are the foundation of the Adam/Albin menu, with each dish crafted to highlight the purity and character of these elements. The dining experience is carefully paced and often consists of multi-course tasting menus, allowing guests to fully appreciate the chefs’ artistry and vision.
The Wine Program: Curated by Sören Polonius
Sören Polonius is a name well-known among wine enthusiasts and professionals alike. As the head sommelier of Adam/Albin, Polonius brings an extensive understanding of wine, a commitment to quality, and a strong dedication to craftsmanship. With an illustrious career that includes competing at the World Sommelier Championships, he has both the expertise and passion to create a wine program that perfectly complements the menu. Polonius is also the founder of the Swedish national sommelier team, helping to elevate Sweden’s presence in the global wine community.
At Adam/Albin, Polonius has developed a wine list that mirrors the philosophy of the kitchen: thoughtful, elegant, and innovative.
His wine program is highly curated, with selections that include both well-known producers and rare, lesser-known labels. This deliberate curation emphasizes wines that enhance the nuanced flavors of each dish, bringing out the depth and character of both the food and the wine.
Approach to Pairing: A Unique Nordic Perspective
Polonius’s approach to wine pairing at Adam/Albin goes beyond conventional pairings; he seeks to create a symbiotic relationship between the wine and the cuisine, respecting the balance and intricacies of each dish. This philosophy aligns with the New Nordic culinary ethos, focusing on the purity and expression of flavors rather than overpowering or masking them. Polonius is known for favoring wines with high acidity, freshness, and minerality, qualities that complement the natural, clean flavors prominent in Nordic cooking. This is particularly important when working with ingredients that are delicate or lightly seasoned, as is often the case in Adam/Albin’s dishes.
For instance, Polonius might pair a subtle, locally sourced fish dish with a crisp, mineral-driven Riesling or a unique pét-nat (pétillant naturel) from a small producer, enhancing the freshness of the fish without overwhelming its flavor. Similarly, earthy, forest-driven ingredients like mushrooms or root vegetables might be paired with a restrained Burgundy or an aged Chardonnay to underscore the earthy notes without dominating the dish’s profile.
A Balanced Selection: Old World Meets New World
Polonius’s wine list at Adam/Albin balances Old World and New World wines, though it leans towards the former, with a particular emphasis on wines from France, Germany, and Italy. This preference reflects a respect for the traditions of these wine regions while allowing room for innovative selections from newer producers and wine-making regions. The list includes classic appellations such as Burgundy, Bordeaux, and the Mosel, as well as wines from emerging regions and progressive winemakers in countries like Austria, South Africa, and the United States.
One of Polonius’s specialties is incorporating biodynamic and organic wines into the program, as these tend to align well with the restaurant’s focus on natural, high-quality ingredients. He has a knack for finding wines that are complex yet approachable, with distinctive qualities that make each pairing memorable. While classic wine regions play a major role on the menu, Polonius is also known for showcasing wines that may be off the beaten path, adding an element of surprise and discovery for diners.
The Wine Experience: A Journey of Discovery
Guests at Adam/Albin can expect more than a traditional wine pairing; they are invited to experience a curated journey that evolves with each course. Polonius and his team introduce each wine with a sense of narrative, discussing its origins, the winemaker’s philosophy, and why it was chosen for that specific dish. This storytelling aspect adds depth to the experience, engaging guests and enhancing their appreciation of both the wine and the food.
Adam/Albin also offers a non-alcoholic pairing menu, which mirrors the same attention to detail found in the wine selections. Polonius has worked closely with the chefs to develop a menu of non-alcoholic beverages that complement the dishes just as thoughtfully as the wines, often featuring ingredients like seasonal fruits, herbs, and house-made infusions.
Creating an Inclusive and Memorable Dining Experience
At Adam/Albin, Sören Polonius’s wine program aims to be inclusive and accessible while remaining highly curated and precise. This balance ensures that wine enthusiasts and casual diners alike feel welcome and engaged. Polonius is passionate about education and making wine appreciation accessible, so the wine team is trained to guide diners of all levels of wine knowledge through the list. Whether a guest opts for a traditional wine pairing or is seeking a one-off glass, they are sure to receive thoughtful recommendations tailored to their individual tastes and preferences.
The ambiance at Adam/Albin is relaxed yet refined, embodying Swedish values of quality, simplicity, and understated elegance. Diners are encouraged to savor the experience, and the wine program is designed to enhance that sense of immersion and exploration.
Recognition and Influence
Adam/Albin and Sören Polonius’s wine program have garnered significant attention within the culinary community and have been lauded by critics for their sophistication and innovation. Polonius’s work has helped solidify Adam/Albin’s reputation not only as a premier dining destination in Stockholm but as a noteworthy player in the international culinary and wine scene. This recognition underscores the restaurant’s commitment to excellence and its role in elevating Swedish fine dining on a global scale.
In summary, Adam/Albin’s success lies in the synergy between its culinary artistry and a wine program that is as meticulously crafted as its menu. Sören Polonius’s dedication to finding wines that speak to the heart of Nordic cuisine makes each meal at Adam/Albin a memorable journey, celebrating the harmony between food, wine, and tradition. This cohesive experience, blending high-caliber cooking with expertly curated wine pairings, has made Adam/Albin one of Stockholm’s most esteemed dining experiences, inviting guests to savor and rediscover the flavors of the region.
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