Or shall we call it ‘The Richards’ ?! Instead of ‘The Champagne Oscars’ ? On this the last day of a year we want to sum-up the year of 2020 from a Champagne perspective. In 20 categories we hand out awards for this years most memorable Champagnes & Champagne related topics!
Winemaker of the Year
Julie Cavil – Krug
‘After many years winemaking director at Krug, Julie Cavil took on the role of chef de caves at the Champagne house at the beginning of 2020. We are very excited about Julie Cavil steering the Krug-ship in to the future. Julie Cavil began working at Krug 13 years ago, and the former Cellar Master Eric Lebel will be staying on as Deputy Direct of Maison Krug.’
Champagne House of the Year
Bollinger – Aÿ
‘With so many great occasions & bottles shared with the team from Bollinger & with Champagne friends all over the world. This year we appoint the gem in Aÿ – Champagne Bollinger ‘Champagne House of the Year’.
Grower of the Year
Nicolas Maillart – Écueil
‘Nicolas Maillart started the family business at Chamery in 1720, before Lucien saw to it that the property ended up at Écueil. The present owner and wine-maker is the extremely well-educated Nicolas born in 1977 who makes sure of putting his Bordeaux knowledge to the best possible use for the wines in Champagne. Vinification is almost completely ecological and the average age of the vines is an impressive 30 years. He is most notable for having planted his vineyards en foule in 1973, that is in the prephyloxera manner. Apart from 3 hectares in Écueil he owns vineyards at Villers-Allerand and one hectar in Bouzy. 10% of the wines are fermented in oak barrels.
Les Francs de Pied Vieilles Vignes comes from the old vines planted en foule that give massively rich grapes with masses of black fruit when one matures them in oak barrels and carries out regular batonnage and avoids malolactic fermentation. A mightily impressive wine with colossal, gigantic, modern power. Oaky, assuredly, but very rich in grapiness and deep dark fruit in a Selosse-like manner.
Even better are the new series of lieu-dits Mont Martin, Jolivettes and Montchenot.’
Champagne Terroir of the Year
Avize
Grand Cru – (RJ 100%)
270 acres
100% CH
3 N-M, 81 R-M
‘It is not always easy to feel the difference between Avize and Cramant because the individual vineyard can have at least as great an impact on the character of the wine as the basic character of the village. Most often, the rocky critique is more pronounced in Avize and the creaminess a little less obvious. In general, Cramant has a larger bouquet, especially in youth, while Avize has a slightly more structured taste. To find the terroir character, one should as usual mainly look among the growers despite the village being a very important elegant component in wines such as Louise Pommery, Dom Pérignon, La Grande Dame, Blanc de Millénaires, Comtes de Champagne, Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs and Billecart- Blanc Blanc de Blancs. Avize has a plethora of vineyards that are perfectly located with a dominance of steep slopes with an extremely high proportion of belimnit chalk. Just like in Cramant, you get more clay-saturated soils below the slope and some growers take note of this difference and make different wines from the slope and the flatter parts such as Selosse and Agrapart.’
Fantastic wines to look for from Avize are; Selosse ‘Les Chantereines’, Selosse ‘Millésime’, Louis Roederer ‘Blanc de Blancs’, Selosse ‘Substance’, Jacquesson ‘Champ Caïn’, Agrapart ‘Venus’, Larmandier-Bernier ‘Les Chemin d´Avize’, Agrapart ‘Avizoise’, De Sousa ‘Caudalies’, Agrapart ‘Mineral’, Franck Bonville ‘Pur Avize’, Pierre Callot ‘Clos Jacquin’ in that order.
The largest landowners of the champagne houses are Veuve Clicquot, Moët & Chandon, Mumm, Louis Massing, Perrier-Jouët and Louis Roederer.
Main producers in the village: Selosse, Agrapart, De Sousa, Franck Bonville, Pierre Callot, Varnier-Fannière in that order.
THE CHAMPAGNES OF THE YEAR’20
Multi-vintage of the Year
mv Selosse ’Lés Carelles du Mesnil’ [ base ’08 – dérgorgement may’18 ] | 98(99)p
TASTING NOTE ‘Only 2,500 bottles of Anselme’s pure Mesnil. More mineral, acidic character and elegance than in the Avize-based wines, together with Selosse’s distinct, aromatic mark of individuality.
Nowadays a solera and with 2008 as the dominant wine a bit restrained, but still penetratingly intense in its unreal lime-screaming style. One of the big giants nowadays.
No matter how much I am in love with both Les Chanteraine Avize and Chemin de Chalons Cramant, this is the crown jewel in Anselme’s arsenal of white diamonds. Surreal intensity, precision and sharp sharpness like a Krug Clos du Mesnil.’
Blanc de Blancs of the Year
1998 Mumm ‘Mumm de Cramant Vinothèque’ magnum | 97(97)p
TASTING NOTE ‘Previously Crémant de Cramant. Considered to be a connoisseur wine for people with sensitivity to the small print. At youth a watery white colour, faint floral aroma, a slightly fragile and short, but very refreshing, spring-like flavour. A wine that has recently become better and that is fantastic in the magnum. What few people know is that this wine is always made from a vintage and always older in magnums. The 98 is legendary.
A wine that I adore, made in gorgeous magnum bottles and often used as an aperitif at our home. It is just in the magnum that a lovely note of toast evolves, and an extra potent minerality along with the butterscotch-flavoured basic tones that are always so mellow and creamy. Magnum bottles are rare but distinctly superior to ordinary bottles.’
Blanc de Noirs of the Year
mv Selosse ’Bout du Clos d’Ambonnay’ [ base ’06 – dérgorgement may’18 ] | 98(98)p
TASTING NOTE ‘Totally amazing! So crazy intense and elegant at the same time. Anesthetically stunning perfume with clear resemblance to Carelles and indeed Romanée Conti in its intense oriental spice and sandalwood bouquet. Silky and extremely multi-faceted. One of the very best young wines I have tried. Absolutely wonderfully fine tuned and scented by the lovely sublime red citrus. Smooth and stylish with deep developmental grandeur around the corner. Very young still but tastefully beautiful.
Maybe the champagne is a little lighter than Faron, maybe the fruit breathes a little more raspberries and a little less blood orange and coconut, but I’ll leave it unsaid. However, it is unmistakably a Selosse Pinot of the highest class.’
Tête de Cuvée of the Year
2008 Taittinger ‘Comtes de Champagne’ | 95(97)p
TASTING NOTE ‘I can’t remember being more impressed with a newly released Comtes than this time. Possibly, my first meeting with the 76′ and the 05′ was largely identical experiences. That is not to say that I am sure that the future will give us one of the grandest Comtes vintages with this edition. Here is a part that is so seductively open and ripe that the warning signals must be switched on. Still, I hope and believe that, like so many previous editions, this is a wine that combines the two theoretically almost impossible qualities, direct charm with great storage. I will return after the next meeting with this delicious piece. That meeting was much more restrained with a classic acidic backbone and ageworthy structure.’
Late Disgorged Champagne of the Year
[Œnothèque – Vinothèque – Collectrion]
1970 Moët & Chandon ’Grand Vintage Collection’ by magnum – dégorgement ’00 | 97(97)p
TASTING NOTE ‘An absolutely wonderful champagne that my colleague in The Champagne Club, Björnstierne and I celebrated Benoit Gouez 50th birthday together with the birthday boy himself at the orangery in Moët’s fantastic Napoleon Garden a beautiful September evening talking about life, Champagne & friendship.
A vintage that is difficult to grasp, but in the two untouched magnums we had the privilege of enjoying this excellent champagne at the very highest level. Not an ounce of oxidation, just butterscotch caramelized notes in an incredibly beautiful bouquet intertwined with roasted coffee notes and honey-soft fruit both in aroma and taste. Fabulous length and both deeper and younger than Dom Pérignon P3 from the same year.’
Rosé of the Year
2012 Louis Roederer ’Cristal Rosé’ | 95(97)p
TASTING NOTE ‘A little shy so that many may miss the grandeur of this ultra-elegant super-sophisticated surreal floating and sublime wine. Classic structure and the same mineral-scented chalky slightly floral style as always, only a little shyer at the moment. A wonderful wine in every way, but extremely youthful and those who expect a monumental slap in the face will be disappointed in the wine’s graceful chalk reeking youth. Everything here is so beautifully orchestrated that I already give 94 points for its beauty, but to enjoy its full potential we have to wait until at least 2025.’
Best New Release of the Year
mv Bollinger ’PN – VZ15’ [ base’15] | 95(95)p
TASTING NOTE ‘New fixed launches of wines in Bollinger’s range are as rare as solar eclipses and it is of course with high expectations that I want to get to know this new wine half vinified on oak barrels. The wine’s name is ’PN’ and will follow in many different editions in the future. The presentation is brilliant and for the thoughts of the house’s legendary blanc de noirs Bollinger ’Vieilles Vignes Françaises’. The first edition has the surname ’VZ 15’. A Verzenay blanc de noirs with sprinkles of Aÿ, Bouzy and Tauxières where 50% of the wine comes from 2015 with reserve wines on magnum down to 2009. Verzenay and Aÿ are, as you know, the dominant villages in Bollinger’s vintage wines. It is no surprise that Verzenay is the leading terroir this very hot year. Verzenay is often the chalky and mineral-rich backbone of Bollinger’s vintage build-up. The wine is vibrantly fresh, mineral-driven and extremely pure. Here is a clarity and sharpness that is outstanding where gunpowder notes and aroma of grilled meat develops as the glass warms up slightly. Maybe a bit naked and with a large portion of unresolved fruit. Still, I love this wine as it is a perfect creation from one of the most important villages in the whole of Champagne dominated by the aforementioned minerality, but also with notes of violet and red grapefruit so typical of Verzenay of the highest class. The scent gets more and more notes of pears, figs and freshly baked baguette on aeration and the taste develops towards peach and apricot jam. Personally, though, I will wait as long as I can before opening my own bottles to get the increasing depth of caramel and grilled hazelnut flavor that only time in the cellar can provide.’
Oldest bottle of the Year
1911 Heidsieck & Monopole ’Vinothèque’ | 95(95)p
TASTING NOTE ‘The former Reims house owns 112 first-class hectares in Verzenay, Bouzy, Verzy, and Ambonnay, to name a few. They even owned the mill in Verzenay and the vineyards that belonged to it. In the beginning the company—founded in 1834—was called Hiedsieck & Co. It took its present name in 1923, when it was situated in Reims. In recent years the firm has been recognized for its 1907s, which have been lying at the bottom of the Gulf of Finland since 1916. Under Vranken’s protection, large amounts of money are now invested to restore its reputation. With Hervé Ladouche as chef de cave, things actually look very promising.
Strangely enough, I managed to find the vintage on my second attempt after initially guessing 1921. It sounds snobby, but this is actually a typical 1911 with its dense structure, smooth texture and intensely honey-saturated aftertaste. Only a carbon dioxide wipe. Beautiful color with hints of orange. Rich aroma of Valrhona cocoa, honey and coffee beans. Well thickened and dense. Richer house style than Pommery which always has more stingency and minerality. Thanks Clément!’
GRAND TROPHY OF THE YEAR’20
1975 Bollinger ’R.D. Vinothèque’ dégorgement ’15 | 99(99)p
TASTING NOTE ‘During a fantastic and unplanned evening in January 2020, I met Bollinger’s new winemaker Denis Bunner over a couple of bottles of Vieilles Vignes Francaises. In our euphoric state, we came to talk about life’s greatest wine moment and I was told that my first one and still my parents’ and sister’s greatest champagne experience was 1975 Bollinger RD. During the first decade after its launch, I tasted the favorite on several occasions without hitting quite right at the maturity level. Both too young and to oxidative samples crossed my path. When my VIP group and I returned to Aÿ in October 2020, Denis had been looking for the perfect bottle. A magnum disgorged 2012. My eyes were probably not the only ones moisturized when the aroma and taste memory from the historic family dinner in 1988 washed over me and was actually surpassed this time. The impressions were almost identical, perhaps with a slightly less distinct note of fresh mushrooms, but instead with an even deeper and even longer taste of chocolate, hazelnuts and duck liver. Absolutely outstanding!’
Best Champagne Hiking of the Year?
‘In July I went with my family to Old time favorite – Hotel Serbelloni in Bellagio on the wonderful Lake Como. At the world’s perhaps best located Michelin starred restaurant, Mistral in the middle of Serbelloni´s garden. Because thanks to my friend Gianluca Franzoni and a common nerdy interest in old champagnes, we became good friends with one of Italy’s most famous chefs, Ettore Bocca, he prepared a specially composed 8-course menu where I would choose champagne number 12,000. I hesitated for a long time between two of my favorites right now, the heavenly easy-drinking and soaring caramel-scented 1995 Moët et Chandon ‘Grand Vintage Collection’ and the perfect one in the magical sunsets behind the pink ridges, 1999 Deutz ‘Cuvée William Deutz Rosé Vinothèque’. The choice fell on both!
You can read the full story in the link below.
Most memorable bottle of the Year
1975 Bollinger ’R.D. Vinothèque’ dégorgement ’15 | 99(99)p
TASTING NOTE ‘During a fantastic and unplanned evening in January 2020, I met Bollinger’s new winemaker Denis Bunner over a couple of bottles of Vieilles Vignes Francaises. In our euphoric state, we came to talk about life’s greatest wine moment and I was told that my first one and still my parents’ and sister’s greatest champagne experience was 1975 Bollinger RD. During the first decade after its launch, I tasted the favorite on several occasions without hitting quite right at the maturity level. Both too young and to oxidative samples crossed my path. When my VIP group and I returned to Aÿ in October 2020, Denis had been looking for the perfect bottle. A magnum disgorged 2012. My eyes were probably not the only ones moisturized when the aroma and taste memory from the historic family dinner in 1988 washed over me and was actually surpassed this time. The impressions were almost identical, perhaps with a slightly less distinct note of fresh mushrooms, but instead with an even deeper and even longer taste of chocolate, hazelnuts and duck liver. Absolutely outstanding!’
Best Label Design of the Year
‘Björnstierne has always loved the playfulness in the art work on the labels from Charles Dufours champagnes from Landreville. Our former sommelier at ‘The Champagne Club by Richard Juhlin’ Max Garberg even tattooed the ‘girl without a face’ on his arm!
Wine Quote of the Year
‘Blind tastings is to wine what strip poker is to love !’
KERMIT LYNCH
Best tutorial on how a champagne glass works or The Champagne Tech Award of the Year
Bubble physicist, Helen Czerski, reveals why you should care about the glass you are drinking your champagne from.
Best Champagne Film Clip of the Year
Dom Pérignon Rosé Vintage 1996
Photographer: Karl Lagerfeld
Director: Johan Renck
Models: Eva Herzigova, Brad Kroenig
Best Sabrage of the Year
THE RESTAURANT AWARDS’20
Champagne & Food Combo of the Year
2008 Larmandier-Bernier ’Vieille Vigne du Levant’ with 5 appetizers @ l’Assiette Champenoise *** in September after months of lock-down.
Champagne Service in a Restaurant of the Year
By sommelier & wine director Sören Polonius @ Adam / Albin, Stockholm
‘Swedish Sommelier Extraordinaire Sören Polonius is a well known name in the sommelier world. Now days You will find him at star-restaurant Adam / Albin in Stockholm.
World champion coach on what is required. Sören Polonius won the Swedish Championships in 2006 and 2008, has done three National Championships, two European Championships and one World Cup. When the desire ran out in the hotel room during the 2010 World Cup in Chile, he decided to train others instead. After all, there is something about the competition that attracts. To stand there on the starting line and feel the adrenaline. A few years ago, he helped Arvid Rosengren to the gold.
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The Purity of the Raw Material, The Richness of the Details
At Adam / Albin you get a modern Swedish restaurant experience far from the classic fine restaurant. The relaxed atmosphere in the lively restaurant is as important as the good food and drink. The food is based on the ingredients that the restauranteurs love themselves and that are prepared with simplicity & of course. They are inspired by all good cooking in the world and basically lies in the Swedish food heritage. “The purity of the raw material, the richness of the details” is the mantra and the essence of the gastronomy.’
House Champagne of the Year
Krug ’Grande Cuvée’ @ l’Assiette Champenoise *** in Tinqueux
‘What can we say ?! A world class restaurant chooses of course a world class champagne the reflect & showcases the style & quality level of the whole house of l’Assiette Champenoise *** in Tinqueux. On numerous occasions we’ve sat down in the cosy bar with a glass Krug. On a cool summers night after a dinner at a champagne house – we treat ourselves with the best of night caps!’
Champagne List of the Year
Skiigaarden – Hemsedal – Norway
‘In the Norwegian mountains, 3 hours north-west of Oslo, lies the Skiresort of Hemsedal. Here You willl find a little gem for the champagne lover. A wine list with 600 unique listings of champagne we absolutely love it !’
