Do You love skiing & drinking great wines? We can give You a great tip – Winner of 2020 Champagne List of the Year – Skiigaarden – Hemsedal – Norway.
THE SKICENTER Skigaarden is located in the heart of Hemsedal Skisenter, close to the high mountain area of Holdeskaret. The area is built around a courtyard with a main building with bar & restaurants.
BIO
SKIIGARDEN
Describe your place in a few sentences!
Anders S Kristensen ‘Located high in the Norwegian mountains, Skigaarden, has become the heart of Hemsedal Skisenter. Built with uncompromising quality and detail in mind, Skigaarden, it is the ultimate nature resort. The main building houses three different restaurants, which are perfect for a break from skiing, hunting, fishing, or a relaxing walk in the mountains. Alpine slopes lie in all directions with beautiful mountain areas in the immediate vicinity of Holdeskaret, this remains the pearl in both summer and winter seasons. The main (À la carte) restaurant is called Storstugu, it offers a menu deeply rooted in local gastronomy but with a modern twist.
In December 2020, we completed phase one of a 500 square metre wine-cellar deep beneath the restaurant building. The wine shelves have been hand built in massive oak, and we have ordered a custom-made lighting system that will be installed later this year. We also have a built-in “tasting-room/chambre separée” in the cellar, in which customers can enjoy wine tastings, while savouring the spectacular view of the cellar through the glass walls.’
What’s the philosophy behind the champagne assortment ?
Anders S Kristensen ‘Before opening the restaurants at Skigaarden, we came to the conclusion, that the philosophy had to be based around our own interest in wine.
From the beginning, our attention has therefore been on the classical wine regions of Europe (especially Champagne, Bourgogne and Piemonte). We have chosen to focus more specifically on a few selected producers, of which we now offer a wide selection of wines and vintages. For us, it is just as important to immerse ourselves in the classics, as well as focusing on the new and more innovative producers. From Champagne our selection includes smaller producers such as Egly-Ouriet, André Beaufort, Cédric Bouchard, Jacques Selosse, Salon, Ulysse Collin, Vilmart & Cie, Adrien Renoir, Jacquesson and Chevreux-Bournazel. From the larger houses we focus on producers such as Louis Roederer, Krug, Charles Heidsieck, Bollinger, Pol Roger, Taittinger and Moët & Chandon.
It is our belief that each decade has vintages that are exceptional in their own right. We therefore wish to offer the widest possible selection of wines from these special vintages, both with respect to the producers and wines. In our wine list, we have created a section that highlights this. It contains a vintage report that includes a short introduction to the growing season of each year, characteristics of the wines deriving from these vintages and ratings from some of the leading wine magazines/authorities within Champagne. We have also allowed ourselves to give the vintages a Skigaarden rating. This section of the wine-list also contains our current selection of wines from each vintage.
Over the past years, there has been produced many brilliant still wines in Champagne. Even though these wines are often made in miniscule quantities, we are determined to source as many of these Coteaux Champenois wines as possible. We feel that this is important to show that the Champagne region is not only about sparkling wines.
To further show our dedication to Champagne and its producers we are currently working on a special menu that will include only wines from this region. We will continue to organize “Winemaker’s dinners” and other events focusing on Champagne.
Our love for Champagne and of course other wines, has also resulted in the founding our own wine import company, Tinden Vin / OC Beverage AS. The focus here is the same as with our wine-list; Champagne, Bourgogne and Piemonte.
In 2020, Skigaarden was for the third year in a row, awarded with the ‘Best Champagne List’ in Norway by the Norwegian Sommelier Association and the magazine/newspaper Kapital. Our wine-list was also awarded “Best of Award of Excellence” by Wine Spectator. We are proud that our efforts over the past years have been recognized.‘
SHORT FACTS
Head sommelier or Wine Director ?
Our Wine Director is Anders Skodvin Kristensen (Sommelier and Managing Director for our Wine Import Company; Tinden Vin / OC Beverage AS). The Owner, Erik Teigen, is also deeply involved in developing the wine-list.
We are currently looking for a new Head Sommelier!
Total no of wines on the wine list ?
Anders S Kristensen ‘In our wine list for 2021 the total number of listings is 2,700 (approximately 32,000 bottles in the cellar).’
No of champagnes on the wine list ?
Anders S Kristensen ‘The total number of Champagnes on the list is 860 (not including different disgorgements). This number is steadily increasing…’
No of champagnes by the glass ?
Anders S Kristensen ‘We only serve one Champagne permanently by the glass, Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru (Tradition) Brut NV. This has since the beginning been our ‘House Champagne’. In addition, we regularly open other bottles to serve by the glass.’
Which house champagne du You use at the moment ?
Anders S Kristensen ‘Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Brut NV (at the moment a blend of 2014/13/12/11).’
How often do You change the house champagne ?
Anders S Kristensen ‘We have no plans of replacing Egly-Ouriet as our, ‘House Champagne’. Egly-Ouriet is the first Champagne producer we started working with in our wine import company, and as a homage to them, as well as to our customers, we wish to continue our tradition of offering what we think is the best ‘House Champagne’ in Norway.’
THE WINE LIST
Analys av de olika momenten & sektionerna.
INTERVIEW with Anders S Kristensen
How has Your Champagne sales changed the past years ?
Anders S Kristensen ‘We have seen an increase in Champagne sales, both for the large houses and ‘Growers Champagne’. Due to the COVID pandemic, we have been forced to close down the restaurant for long periods this last year, but hopefully the positive trend will continue when things return to normal.’
What do You think of the current trend of ’terroir champagnes’ made of single parcels ?
Anders S Kristensen ‘I have always loved Champagne, but with the introduction of more single-parcel wines my interest has intensified. I have been a great admirer of the art of blending in Champagne, but the single-parcel wines have for sure brought a welcomed diversity to the region’s wines.
I believe the trend of identifying and vinifying specific terroirs and releasing them as vintage (or multi vintage) wines will attract new followers, especially among the `Burgundy aficionados`.
Several of the producers who have been in the front of this movement, have also been outspoken advocates for more sustainable viticulture. Quite a few of the larger houses have also moved in this direction. In a region that has been falling behind in this area for decades, I am optimistic that this development will have a positive effect for Champagne as a whole.
In relation to the growing trend of more terroir focused Champagnes, we have also seen a marked lowering in the addition of dosage. Many of these wines have become almost synonymous with the Brut Nature or Extra Brut category. There is an ongoing discussion about the long-term aging capacity of these wines, as many claims that Champagne need dosage to be able to age well. A great many of the single-vineyard Champagnes with low or no dosage are a new phenomenon, they have no track record regarding their ability to age. So, I guess time will tell! My personal experience with the aging potential of these wines has been positive, multiple bottles of Cédric Bouchard’s early bottlings have been fabulous!’
2020 has been a very special year. What’s Your idea of the near future for Champagne in general ?
Anders S Kristensen ‘It is of course difficult to predict the future, but it will probably take quite some time for the world economy to recover after the COVID pandemic. I am afraid that Champagne, a product that many consider as a luxury item, will suffer under these circumstances. At the same time, it is my impression that several new markets have discovered the Champagne region, hopefully this will compensate for the drop in sales in other markets!
Regarding the Norwegian market in particular, the interest in Champagne has been substantial and steadily increasing over the past years. I believe there are several explanations for this, one of the main reasons being that wine importers have focused more on small producers delivering terroir focused wines (often deriving from a single vintage). I think another explanation is that people have discovered that Champagne is not only a wine to be enjoyed on its own. Traditionally many have enjoyed Champagne exclusively as a festive drink but are now realizing that it is one of the most versatile wines within the world of gastronomy.
After learning to understand and perfecting techniques in the cellars for centuries, many producers are now focusing on learning more about differences in soil composition, increasing the use of diverse plant material when (re)planting vineyards or replacing dead vines (Massal Selection). Also giving more attention regarding different possibilities within fermenting/aging vessels and different coopers etc. This will without doubt have a positive effect on the wines being produced in Champagne in the future.
I also believe that the ongoing shift towards more sustainable/organic/biodynamic viticulture and more natural work in the cellar (fermentation with natural yeast etc.), both among many of the smaller producers and several of the larger houses, has sparked an interest with a new segment of customers.
Over the past years, there has been a lot of debate regarding climate change affecting the wine world. The rise in temperature has been one of the main topics, but my understanding is that this has to a certain degree been “welcomed” in Champagne. It has at least resulted in better maturation of the grapes in this traditionally marginal climate (although tropical summer temperatures and lack of rain in some cases have led to drought and heat stress for the vines). On the other hand, unstable weather patterns have caused other serious problems, such as severe spring frosts and intense hailstorms, causing smaller crops of grapes and of course also less wine. I am keeping my fingers crossed that these phenomena will not accelerate further!’
This strange year, on New Year’s eve at midnight, which Champagne will You be opening?
Anders S Kristensen ‘Due to the social restrictions, we were only a few friends gathered for dinner at my house. We enjoyed several beautiful Champagnes during our meal, but the wine we chose to open at midnight was an Adrien Renoir’s amazing, Verzy Grand Cru Lieu dit `Les Epinettes` (Pinot Noir) Extra Brut 2016. A wine of great intensity, layers of complexity, exceptional balance and length. Pure bliss!‘
Which Champagne would You treat a dream guest, and why ?
Anders S Kristensen ‘Such a difficult question. This would of course depend on the guest. I must admit that I have several dream guests in mind… and with the vast assortment of styles within Champagne available, the possibilities are endless! If I were to pick a Blanc de Blancs I would probably reach out for a mature bottle of Salon, say 1985 or 1979. Perhaps a magnum of Guy Charlemagne’s amazing, Bague Carrée 1988?
If the guest would prefer a younger version, I would choose something like Cédric Bouchard’s, La Bolorée (Pinot Blanc) or Ulysse Collin, Les Roises. When it comes to Pinot Noir/Meunier based Champagnes, I may choose a lovely older disgorgement of Egly-Ouriet Ambonnay Les Crayères Blanc de Noirs V.V. or Krug Grande Cuvée. Maybe a magical bottle of pure Pinot Meunier from the beautiful micro producer Chevreux-Bournazel!
If the guest is open for a wine with a little sweetness, I would be more than happy to pour some André Beaufort, Ambonnay Demi-Sec 1996, a true masterpiece within this style! If a Rosé Champagne were the guests preferred choice, I would fetch something like Jérôme Prévost Fac-simile, Bérêche Campania Remensis, Vilmart Grand Cellier Rubis or Jacques Selosse Rosé.
PS [ what piece of music would you listen to drinking Champagne with Your dream guest ? ]
Anders S Kristensen ‘In addition to being a wine geek, I am also a lover of music and have been for as long as I can remember. As with the question regarding what kind of Champagne, my choice of music would also depend on the guest… My playlist for Champagne occasions tends to include, John Coltrane, Nils Frahm, Jaga Jazzist, Bugge Wesseltoft, Patti Smith, Roky Erickson, Raga Rockers, Biosphere, Four Tet, Aphex Twin and Tøyen Holding.
2020 Champagne List of the Year – Skiigaarden – Hemsedal – Norway
‘In the Norwegian mountains, 3 hours north-west of Oslo, lies the Skiresort of Hemsedal. Here You willl find a little gem for the champagne lover. A wine list with 860 unique listings of champagne we absolutely love it !’
