Björnstierne was invited with dear friend Dr Hank Linden to the house of ‘le Phantome’ for a gentlemen’s lunch @ Terroir Gröndal. ‘In all simplicity’ as he said over the phone. ‘Apéro at 12:30’ he said. We started in grand style:
KRUG ‘GRANDE CUVÉE’ │I.D. 211021′ (03 base)│50PN 15PM 35PM │ RJ 92(94)
TASTING NOTE ‘Krug’s nonvintage wine costs about $150. They themselves would rather call it a ‘multi-vintage’. Almost every time one I drink Krug Grande Cuvée, some new element is revealed. Because it’s been blended from ten different vintages and forty-seven different wines from twenty-five crus, variation is understandable. However, I have only missed spotting it on one occasion at a blind tasting, proving that its basic character is unique. The extremely tough acidity, together with the heavy, rich Krug aromas, are the foremost clues. Always check how straight the cork is in order to decipher when it was disgorged. When young, the acidity can be too hard. When middle aged and older, the Grand Cuvée has a fabulously complex nose and palate, dominated by nuts and honey. The aftertaste is always long and majestic, like a great symphony. The best bottles deserve even higher points than I’ve given here.’
2002 PIPER-HEIDSIECK ‘CUVÉE RARE’ | 60PN 40CH |RJ points 94(96)
TASTING NOTE ‘A masterpiece of elegance in this powerful year. Early to be the rock-solid, but this can not be anything but a legendary Champagne. Dense and concentrated fruit, biting acids that scares off many but the notes of butterscotch and coffee aromas lurking beneath the surface. A fantastic wine in the Thibault spirit! His very last vintage also …. Very reminiscent of Charles Heidsieck Blanc de Millenaires with its fat buttery, and at the same time roasted hazelnut grilling and sun-matured sweet citrus costume.’
2004 LOUIS ROEDERER ‘CRISTAL’ │55PN 45CH │ RJ 96(97)
TASTING NOTE ‘An unusually unpredictable vintage. Very shy in the current state, despite that the faint tones are of the more open kind. Evolves more and more and already feels classic. Shang-ri-La!’
