Björnstierne ANTONSON aka TheChampagneSommelier takes us on a journey spanning 5 decades – Salon 2013 vs 1961. [read the full champagne story]
Estimated reading time: 6 minutes
Salon ‘Cuvée S de Salon’ 2013 vs 1961
Tasting and writing about Salon, the iconic Champagne from Le Mesnil-sûr-Oger, offers us the opportunity to explore every nuance of its history, production, terroir, and significance in the world of Champagne. We delve deeply into its rich heritage, discover its unique characteristics, and understand why it has become one of the most sought-after and admired Champagnes on the market today. By Björnstierne aka The Champagne Sommelier.
Understanding Salon Champagne
To understand Salon Champagne, we must understand its roots and the fascinating history surrounding its founding, to explore the life and vision of its founder, Eugène-Aimé Salon, and follow the long journey from idea to reality. From the moment Champagne Salon was founded in 1911 to its modern-day successes, we learn about the challenges and triumphs that have shaped its history and heritage.
TERROIR IS THE SOUL of every Champagne, and for Salon, it is Le Mesnil-sûr-Oger that forms the basis of its unique character. The geographical and geological environment of this village, where its soil and microclimate create the perfect conditions for growing Chardonnay grapes of the highest quality.
Salon has become synonymous with luxury and exclusivity, with significance and influence in the Champagne world. From its unique position as a Blanc de Blancs Champagne to its rarity and demand from collectors and Champagne enthusiasts worldwide, Salon has become a powerful symbol of prestige and quality.
Tasting Salon Champagne is like traveling back to its origins and experiencing its terroir and history through every sip. From its complex aromas and nuances to its seductive flavors and long, elegant finish, Salon has gained a reputation for being one of the most sublime and enjoyable Champagnes ever created.
What Does the Future Hold for Salon Champagne?
While its heritage is strong and its reputation is unmatched, Salon faces new challenges and opportunities in a changing Champagne world. And Salon continues to evolve and grow, while preserving its unique character and tradition. This masterpiece from Le Mesnil-sûr-Oger has become one of the world’s most appreciated and iconic Champagnes.
Forty-five vintages have been produced since the first declared vintage in 1905. The vintages are:
1905 – 1909
1911 – 1914
1921 – 1925 – 1928
1934 – 1937
1942 – 1943 – 1945 – 1946 – 1947 – 1948 – 1949
1951 – 1953 – 1955 – 1956 – 1959
1961 – 1964 – 1966 – 1969
1971 – 1973 – 1976 – 1979
1982 – 1983 – 1985 – 1988
1990 – 1995 – 1996 – 1997 – 1999
2002 – 2004 – 2006 – 2007 – 2008
2012 – 2013.
Now
2013 Salon ’Cuvée S de Salon’
100% Chardonnay
Grand Cru Le Mesnil-sûr-Oger
97 points
TASTING NOTE TheChampagneSommelier – It is, of course, enormously exciting to blind taste each new vintage of Salon with good Champagne-knowledgeable friends. This is how I also encountered this beauty. Opinions differed, with several finding the wine too developed and soft, while others praised its accessibility and class. I am not entirely convinced that I perceived the Champagne completely correctly. What is clear, however, is that the style is more directly appealing and less acidic than before, with a Grand Siècle-like texture and aroma profile. At the same time, there is a super-concentrated Mesnil fruit and a velvet carpet that is extremely unusual for this light and elegant year. Don’t be afraid to store it as you usually do with Salon, but how great the gain will be remains to be seen.
2013 in numbers
- Harvest: September 24.
- Yield: 12,008 kg/ha.
- Area under vines: 33,573 ha.
- Total sales: 304,994,034 bottles.
- France: 167,354,694 bottles.
- Export: 137,639,340 bottles.
- Average potential alcohol: 9.8%.
- Average total acidity: 8.4 g/l.
- Average malic acid: 0.05 g/l.
Then
1961 Salon ’Cuvée S de Salon Œnothèque’
100% Chardonnay
Grand Cru Le Mesnil-sûr-Oger
Market value approx. €6,000 – March 2025
100 points
TASTING NOTE TheChampagneSommelier – When approaching a mature greatness like the 1961 Salon, a calibration wine is needed so that brains and palates are ready to tackle the Champagne world’s most questioned and mythical beauty. Far too few have actually had the opportunity to taste Salon in full bloom. Many rightly argue that they are either steel-like undeveloped acid packages or oxidative fallen fruit bombs. It is definitely true that Salon takes many years to develop full maturity and that they are made in an old-fashioned, apple-acidic, patience-testing style, but that they would sometimes be too quickly mature, even overripe, is a misunderstanding. What happens is that the wines in an intermediate phase get notes reminiscent of oxidation because the ripeness of the grapes at harvest is high, and before the rich, buttery, nutty style has fully developed, the aroma spectrum has notes of hay, baked apples, and figs playing a major role. Remarkable but very clear when one has time to follow a Salon vintage through life’s journey.
Holy Smoke! My only 100-pointer so far! In Champagne circles, it is known that I have been a great critic of Salon. Either because it is too young like a razor blade and unripe gooseberries, or because it is oxidatively mature and over-the-hill like a milky oyster in July… but when the stars are in zenith and the label and provenance are good, then it is like in the lottery commercial; “Suddenly it happens!”.
If I was close to tears of disappointment over the 66 at the Tidelius tasting, the tears flowed for real in the next flight when this bottle, disgorged at the same time and with exactly the same low dosage, was so lovely that the emotions overflowed. The fact is that this wonderfully youthful wine is the bottle that most reminded Richard Juhlin of the world’s best wine, the 1928 Pol Roger “Grauves”. Here was the same improbable contrast between youthfulness and beautifully mature notes. The scent is so unreal with its euphoric, pheromone-like perfume uplifted by linden blossom, geranium, lily of the valley, acacia, ginger, fresh tarragon, mint, lime zest, and Sorrento lemon. Crystal clear brilliance and laser-sharp precision. Caressing with faint undertones of vanilla, brioche, and roasting. Perfect flinty mineral finesse and swirling small pearl necklace bubbles that dance ballet on the palate. What is missing in relation to the 1928 ‘Grauves’ is a viscous oiliness that may come in twenty years or so. Imagine that a now 51-year-old can personify snowmelt, late winter, and the rebirth of life.
The wine comes directly from Salon’s cellars. Disgorged in October 2011, dosage 1 gram/liter.
1961 in numbers:
- Harvest: September 20.
- Yield: 7,800 kg/ha.
- Area under vines: 12,494 ha.
- Total sales: 54,187,849 bottles.
- France: 38,658,873 bottles.
- Export: 15,528,976 bottles.
- Average potential alcohol: 9%.
- Average total acidity: 8 g/l.
