Estimated reading time: 7 minutes
The pod cast – The wine list
episode 2.0
Les Crayères – Le Parc
★★
Reims
Les Crayères: A Champagne Lover’s Dream in the Heart of Reims
Nestled in the historical city of Reims, the capital of the Champagne region, Les Crayères is a prestigious Relais & Châteaux property known for its refined luxury, world-class dining, and outstanding Champagne collection. Situated within an opulent château surrounded by lush gardens, this property is home to Le Parc, a two-Michelin-star restaurant led by Chef Philippe Mille, where gastronomy and Champagne come together to create an extraordinary experience. Les Crayères’ Champagne list, one of the most extensive in the world, celebrates the very best of the region, from prestigious Grand Marques to rare small growers, making it a paradise for Champagne aficionados.
Les Crayères: A Storied Past and a Vision of Elegance
Originally built as a private mansion in 1904 for the de Polignac family, Les Crayères was transformed into a luxurious hotel and restaurant in the 1980s. Its architecture, characterized by neoclassical elegance, has been lovingly preserved and enhanced with modern touches to create an ambiance of timeless charm. The estate’s lush 17-acre park and elegant interiors offer a tranquil escape in the heart of Reims, and Les Crayères has become synonymous with refined hospitality and dedication to culinary excellence.
Le Parc Restaurant: A Stage for Exceptional Pairings
Le Parc is the crown jewel of Les Crayères’ dining experience, where Chef Philippe Mille crafts menus that honor French culinary traditions with seasonal ingredients sourced locally and sustainably. Mille, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF), has brought international acclaim to Le Parc through his focus on precision, elegance, and balance, which shines through in each dish. Le Parc’s menu is designed to pair seamlessly with Champagne, making Les Crayères not only a destination for exquisite cuisine but also for Champagne connoisseurship.
The Wine List: An Ode to the Terroir of Champagne
The wine list at Les Crayères is considered among the most prestigious in the world, featuring more than 800 Champagne labels alongside an extensive selection of wines from Burgundy, Bordeaux, and other renowned wine regions. Overseen by an expert sommelier team, Les Crayères’ Champagne selection is unparalleled, showcasing both renowned Champagne houses and lesser-known artisanal growers, all of whom contribute to the rich tapestry of the region’s wine culture.
With selections spanning multiple decades, from current releases to rare vintages and limited-edition cuvées, the Champagne list at Les Crayères is a deep dive into the history, artistry, and diversity of Champagne.
Champagne Selection: The Heart of Les Crayères
As a Michelin-starred restaurant situated in the heart of Champagne, Les Crayères takes its Champagne program seriously. The list has been carefully curated to offer a comprehensive range of styles, from Blanc de Blancs to Rosé and Vintage Champagnes. Here’s an in-depth look at some of the standout features of Les Crayères’ Champagne collection:
1. Grand Marques and Prestige Cuvées
The list boasts an impressive array of Champagnes from world-renowned houses, including Krug, Dom Pérignon, Louis Roederer, and Taittinger. For those seeking an indulgent experience, Les Crayères offers bottles from celebrated prestige cuvées such as Dom Pérignon’s P2 and P3 Plenitude series, Louis Roederer’s Cristal, and Krug’s vintage offerings. These bottles are carefully selected for their ability to elevate the dining experience, offering layers of complexity and a sense of history in each sip.
2. Historical Vintages and Rare Bottles
Les Crayères is celebrated for its impressive collection of vintage Champagnes, with bottles dating back several decades. These vintages allow guests to experience the incredible aging potential of Champagne, with rare finds like Salon’s 1982, Bollinger R.D. from the 1970s, and Pol Roger’s 1996 Sir Winston Churchill. Aging brings out unique tertiary flavors of honey, dried fruits, and nuts in these Champagnes, offering a richer and more complex profile that pairs well with Mille’s refined dishes.
3. Artisanal Grower Champagnes
Les Crayères’ commitment to celebrating Champagne extends beyond the big houses to include smaller, family-owned producers. The restaurant’s sommelier team has cultivated strong relationships with growers who focus on organic, biodynamic, and sustainable practices. Artisanal producers like Jacques Selosse, Egly-Ouriet, and Pierre Péters are well-represented, offering distinct terroir-driven expressions that emphasize the unique characteristics of single vineyards and smaller sub-regions within Champagne. These Champagnes provide a more intimate, complex experience, and they pair beautifully with Mille’s seasonal cuisine.
4. Unique Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noirs
Recognizing the diversity of the Champagne region, Les Crayères offers a vast selection of Blanc de Blancs (Chardonnay-based) and Blanc de Noirs (Pinot Noir- or Pinot Meunier-based) Champagnes. Blanc de Blancs, with their finesse and minerality, are ideal for lighter dishes and seafood courses, while the fuller-bodied Blanc de Noirs complements richer dishes. Chardonnay-based Champagnes from houses like Ruinart and Pierre Gimonnet reveal citrus, floral, and mineral notes, while the powerful Blanc de Noirs from producers like Georges Laval and Bérêche et Fils exhibit depth, red fruit flavors, and a smooth texture.
5. Exclusive and Limited-Edition Cuvées
Les Crayères also sources exclusive bottlings and limited-edition cuvées, which offer rare insights into Champagne’s most experimental side. These limited releases, such as Dom Ruinart’s Rosé or Veuve Clicquot’s Cave Privée series, provide guests with a unique opportunity to taste wines that are rarely found outside of private cellars. These selections are often produced in small quantities and reflect innovative winemaking techniques, from extended lees aging to selective vineyard sourcing, adding an extra layer of exclusivity and refinement.
6. Rosé Champagne Selections
Rosé Champagne is highly celebrated at Les Crayères, and the list offers some of the finest examples of this versatile style. Rosé Champagnes from houses like Billecart-Salmon, Laurent-Perrier, and Ruinart deliver a balance of freshness, fruit, and structure, making them an excellent pairing for both meat and delicate dessert courses. Rosé Champagne’s slight tannic structure and red berry notes create a delightful bridge between the savory and sweet elements of Mille’s menu.
7. Champagne Pairing Menus
For those wishing to fully immerse themselves in the Champagne experience, Les Crayères offers dedicated Champagne pairings with its tasting menus. This curated experience provides diners with a seamless progression of Champagne styles that complement each course. By pairing each dish with a specific Champagne, the sommelier team highlights the versatility of sparkling wine, showcasing its adaptability to various flavors, textures, and temperatures.
The Sommelier Team: Crafting an Elevated Champagne Experience
The sommelier team at Les Crayères is known for its depth of expertise and passion for Champagne, guiding guests through the intricacies of the wine list with care and insight. Each sommelier is well-versed in the nuances of the region’s Champagnes, able to recommend bottles that not only match the dishes but also introduce guests to new and exciting producers. They emphasize education, helping guests understand the significance of each cuvée, from its vineyard origins to the unique winemaking techniques involved.
The sommeliers take into account guests’ preferences and familiarity with Champagne, tailoring recommendations that create a memorable experience, whether it’s a rare vintage for a special occasion or a lesser-known grower Champagne for the adventurous palate.
Dining at Les Crayères: A Symphony of Champagne and Cuisine
A meal at Le Parc, paired with selections from Les Crayères’ Champagne list, is a celebration of the best that Champagne has to offer. Chef Mille’s tasting menus, which often include dishes like langoustine with caviar, pigeon with foie gras, and exquisite seasonal desserts, are crafted with a harmony that lends itself beautifully to Champagne pairings. The flavors, textures, and delicate intricacies of Mille’s cuisine are enhanced by Champagne’s effervescence, acidity, and complexity.
Final Thoughts
Les Crayères stands as a beacon for Champagne enthusiasts, offering one of the most comprehensive Champagne lists in the world in an opulent and historic setting. With a team dedicated to both wine education and hospitality, Les Crayères provides an unparalleled Champagne experience that’s as educational as it is indulgent. Each glass is an invitation to explore the world of Champagne, from the iconic to the obscure, and each bottle has been chosen with the utmost care to ensure a dining experience that celebrates the elegance and diversity of this legendary wine region. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a curious newcomer, Les Crayères offers an unforgettable journey through the finest bubbles Champagne has to offer.
