Listen to the podcast – The wine list – episode 8 – on three star Guide Michelin restaurant in London – Pierre Gagnaire’s Sketch [read the full champagne story]
Estimated reading time: 10 minutes
The pod cast – The wine list
episode 8.0
Sketch
★★★
London
Sketch, The Lecture Room and Library
A Three-Michelin-Starred Ode to Gastronomy and the Unseen Symphony of Wine in London
Sketch, The Lecture Room and Library, a jewel in London’s vibrant culinary landscape, stands as a testament to the visionary partnership of Mourad Mazouz and the globally acclaimed chef Pierre Gagnaire. Housed within an elegant 18th-century building at 9 Conduit Street, Mayfair, this establishment has rightfully earned its three Michelin stars, a prestigious accolade signifying Exceptional cuisine. While the sources eloquently paint a picture of a joyously colourful and lavishly decorated dining space, characterized by an unparalleled sense of theatre and unfailingly attentive service, and meticulously detail Gagnaire’s signature multi-dish cooking, they also subtly allude to another crucial element of this exceptional experience: its wine program, described as featuring an “interesting wine list“.
The wine program at Sketch
To truly appreciate the likely depth and significance of the wine program at Sketch, The Lecture Room and Library, one must first understand the intricate tapestry of culinary artistry that forms its foundation. Pierre Gagnaire is not merely a chef; he is a culinary philosopher, and his approach to Modern French cuisine is marked by a profound understanding of flavor, texture, and the art of surprise. His signature multi-dish cooking is not a random assembly of plates but a carefully orchestrated sequence where each element contributes to a larger narrative. The description of a skilfully roasted langoustine tail in liquorice beurre noisette being “contrasted by an array of complex accompanying dishes crafted with mind-blowing detail” offers a glimpse into the intellectual rigor and artistic flair that define Gagnaire’s creations. Each component is “always exceptionally cooked” and the “original combinations are brilliantly conceived“, demanding a wine program of equal caliber to not only complement but also elevate such intricate culinary expressions.
The ambiance of Sketch
The ambiance of Sketch, The Lecture Room and Library, far from being a mere backdrop, is an integral part of the overall dining experience. The description of it as a “joyously colourful and lavishly decorated 18th-century house of fun” suggests an environment where diners are encouraged to embrace a sense of occasion and delight. This theatrical setting, coupled with the “unfailingly attentive service“, creates an atmosphere of indulgence and sophistication. In such a context, the wine service becomes more than just the pouring of a beverage; it is a carefully choreographed element of the performance, with knowledgeable sommeliers likely playing a key role in guiding guests through the “interesting wine list” and offering insightful pairings that enhance the culinary journey.
The wine list
The mere mention of an “interesting wine list” in the context of a three-Michelin-starred restaurant helmed by a chef of Pierre Gagnaire’s stature speaks volumes. While the sources do not provide granular details about the list’s composition, one can infer that it is far more than a perfunctory selection. In establishments of this caliber, the wine program is typically a carefully curated reflection of the restaurant’s culinary philosophy and commitment to excellence. An “interesting wine list” likely implies a collection that showcases a diverse range of regions, both classic and emerging, and a thoughtful selection of grape varietals, from well-known staples to more esoteric finds.
Considering Gagnaire’s innovative and complex cuisine, it is highly probable that the wine list at Sketch, The Lecture Room and Library is designed to offer pairings that can stand up to and harmonize with the intricate flavor profiles and textural contrasts present in his dishes. For instance, the unexpected pairing of liquorice with beurre noisette alongside roasted langoustine suggests a culinary adventurousness that would likely be mirrored in the wine selections. One might expect to find wines with nuanced aromatics, balanced acidity, and the ability to interact with both delicate and intense flavors.
In a three-Michelin-starred restaurant, the wine program often extends beyond simply offering a list of bottles. It typically encompasses several key elements:
- A Deep and Diverse Selection: The “interesting wine list” at Sketch likely features a significant number of wines, representing a wide geographical spread and a spectrum of styles. This allows for a greater range of pairing possibilities and caters to diverse palates and preferences. One might anticipate a strong representation of classic French regions, given the restaurant’s Modern French culinary foundation, but also selections from other renowned wine-producing countries. The depth of vintages might also be notable, with mature wines offering complexity and tertiary aromas that can complement sophisticated dishes.
- Expert Sommeliers: In an establishment where service is “unfailingly attentive“, the presence of knowledgeable and passionate sommeliers is almost certain. These wine professionals play a crucial role in understanding the nuances of both the menu and the wine list, offering personalized recommendations and guiding guests towards pairings that will elevate their dining experience. They would possess a deep understanding of grape varietals, terroir, and the aging potential of different wines.
- Thoughtful Wine Pairings: Given the complexity of Gagnaire’s multi-dish cooking, it is highly probable that Sketch offers carefully curated wine pairing menus. These pairings would be meticulously designed by the chefs and sommeliers to create synergistic relationships between the food and the wine, where each enhances the other. This might involve unexpected pairings that explore complementary or contrasting flavors and textures, adding another layer of intrigue to the dining experience.
- Proper Cellar Management and Storage: Maintaining the quality of a diverse and potentially valuable wine collection requires meticulous attention to detail in terms of storage conditions. A three-Michelin-starred restaurant like Sketch would undoubtedly invest in state-of-the-art cellaring facilities to ensure that all wines are kept at optimal temperature and humidity levels, preserving their integrity and allowing them to express their full potential.
- A Commitment to Discovery: An “interesting wine list” might also suggest a willingness to showcase lesser-known producers or regions alongside more established names. This demonstrates a commitment to ongoing discovery and a desire to offer guests unique and memorable wine experiences beyond the familiar.
The significance of a comprehensive and well-executed wine program in a three-Michelin-starred restaurant cannot be overstated. Wine is not merely an accompaniment to food; it is an integral part of the overall gastronomic experience. When carefully chosen, wine can enhance the flavors of a dish, provide balance, and add layers of complexity to the palate. In the context of Pierre Gagnaire’s intricate and innovative cuisine, the role of wine becomes even more crucial in creating a harmonious and unforgettable sensory journey.
While the sources do not provide specific examples of wines featured on Sketch’s list, one can speculate on the types of selections that might be present, given the Modern French culinary direction and the emphasis on exceptional quality:
- From France: A strong representation of classic French wine regions would be expected, including:
- Bordeaux: Offering a range of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot-based wines from prestigious appellations, capable of pairing with richer dishes.
- Burgundy: Featuring elegant and complex Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines, suitable for more delicate preparations.
- Champagne: A selection of high-quality Champagnes, both non-vintage and vintage, perfect for celebratory occasions and as an aperitif or accompaniment to certain courses.
- Loire Valley: Offering a diversity of styles, from crisp Sauvignon Blancs to elegant Chenin Blancs and Cabernet Francs.
- Rhône Valley: Presenting both the powerful Syrah-based wines of the Northern Rhône and the Grenache-dominant blends of the Southern Rhône.
- From Other Regions: The “interesting wine list” likely extends beyond France to include notable wines from other parts of the world:
- Italy: With a focus on regions like Piedmont (Barolo, Barbaresco), Tuscany (Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino), and potentially Friuli for its white wines.
- Spain: Featuring wines from regions like Rioja, Ribera del Duero, and Priorat.
- New World: Select offerings from regions in North and South America, Australia, and New Zealand, chosen for their quality and ability to complement the cuisine.
Given the focus on “original combinations” and “brilliantly conceived” dishes, the wine list might also feature some more unconventional or cutting-edge selections, reflecting a spirit of culinary exploration and a desire to offer guests something truly unique. This could include wines from smaller, artisanal producers or perhaps even natural or biodynamic wines that offer distinctive character.
The wine service
The “unfailingly attentive service” mentioned in the sources strongly suggests that the staff at Sketch, The Lecture Room and Library are highly trained and knowledgeable, including the sommelier team. They would be adept at understanding guests’ preferences, guiding them through the wine list, and suggesting pairings that will enhance their enjoyment of the meal. The sommelier’s role in a three-Michelin-starred restaurant is not just to take wine orders but to act as a curator of the wine experience, ensuring that each bottle is served at the optimal temperature and in the appropriate glassware, further elevating the appreciation of both the wine and the food.
In conclusion, while the provided sources offer limited explicit information about the wine program at Sketch, The Lecture Room and Library, the context of its three Michelin stars, the culinary genius of Pierre Gagnaire, the description of an “interesting wine list“, and the emphasis on exceptional service collectively paint a picture of a wine program that is likely to be as meticulously crafted and thoughtfully executed as the cuisine itself. One can confidently infer that the wine list is extensive, diverse, and curated to complement the intricate flavors and textures of Gagnaire’s Modern French dishes, with knowledgeable sommeliers on hand to guide guests through a truly exceptional gastronomic journey. The unseen symphony of wine at Sketch, The Lecture Room and Library undoubtedly plays a vital role in creating the unforgettable and theatrical dining experience for which it is renowned. The “interesting wine list” is not just a list; it is a carefully chosen ensemble of liquid artistry, ready to harmonize with the culinary masterpieces emerging from Pierre Gagnaire’s kitchen.
Pierre Gagnaire
Coming from a family of restaurant owners, food was always in Pierre Gagnaire’s blood. The French native currently has three Michelin stars and 5 AA Rosettes at Sketch (The Lecture Room & Library).
In 1976, Pierre won his first Michelin star. In 1981, he went solo and opened his own restaurant Aux Passementiers, in Saint-Etienne, which won him 2 Michelin stars. In 1992, he opened a second restaurant, restaurant Pierre Gagnaire.
However, this did not work out for Pierre and he found himself bankrupt in 1996, and he left for Paris. With the support of his friends, he opened another restaurant under his name in Paris. Just 2 years later, he won 3 Michelin stars. This then led to him opening restaurants worldwide, including London, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Seoul, Dubai and Los Angeles. He also has two Michelin-starred Pierre Gagnaire Gastronomic Restaurant in Le Grande Maison in Bordeaux, headed up by Jean-Denis Lebras.
