Listen to the podcast – The wine list – episode 9 – on three star Guide Michelin restaurant in Gentofte – Chef-Owner Eric Kragh Vildgaard’s Jordnær [read the full champagne story]
Estimated reading time: 8 minutes
The pod cast – The wine list
episode 9.0
Jordnær
★★★
Gentofte – Denmark
[read the full wine list here]
Jordnær:
Where Subtlety Sparkles and the Vine Vibrates – A Pilgrimage to Gentofte’s Triune Star
The whispers had reached even my jaded ears, carried on the Baltic breeze and amplified by the hushed reverence of those who have partaken. Jordnær, ensconced in the unassuming Copenhagen suburb of Gentofte, had ascended to the rarified echelon of three Michelin stars. A third star! In these times of fleeting culinary trends and the relentless pursuit of novelty for its own sake, such an accolade demands not just attention, but a pilgrimage. And so, I found myself stepping across the threshold of this establishment, not merely to dine, but to dissect the very essence of its triumph.
The initial impression
The initial impression is one of understated elegance, a stylish and sophisticated oasis expertly run by Tina, whose charm in overseeing the service is notable. But it is the culinary vision of Chef-Owner Eric Kragh Vildgaard that forms the bedrock of this remarkable dining experience. Vildgaard, we are told, is the driving force, a chef wielding enormous technical skill across a procession of bold and creative dishes. His foundations are laudably rooted in the bounty of the sea and the verdant yields of the land, all sourced with an unwavering commitment to the utmost quality.
The gastronomical profile
The gastronomical profile at Jordnær, as glimpsed through the Michelin inspector’s discerning eye, oscillates intriguingly between the wisely restrained and the hyper-detailed. We learn of the “pure, precise hamachi, ponzu and wasabi,” a testament to a chef confident enough to allow impeccable ingredients to speak with clarity. Conversely, the “stunningly plated, multi-layered chawanmushi” hints at a meticulous artistry, a desire to explore the intricate possibilities within a single dish. This duality suggests a restless creativity tempered by a profound respect for the inherent beauty of prime produce.
But a truly exceptional dining experience is not merely a symphony of flavors on the plate; it is an orchestration that extends to the glass. And it is here, in the realm of the vine, that Jordnær further distinguishes itself. The wine program, one senses immediately upon perusing the weighty tome that serves as its liquid manifesto, is not an afterthought, but an integral partner in Vildgaard’s gastronomic narrative.
The sommeliers
The sommeliers – those silent guides navigating this vinous labyrinth (though unnamed in the provided texts) – undoubtedly play a pivotal role in translating this extensive collection into harmonious pairings for the discerning palate. One imagines their deep understanding of Vildgaard’s culinary nuances, their ability to discern the precise counterpoint or resonant echo that will elevate each course.
The wine list
The wine list itself is a testament to both breadth and meticulous curation. Turning to the section dedicated to Champagne, one is immediately struck by the depth of representation. The opening epigraph, a quote from the legendary Madame Elisabeth Bollinger, “Champagne; I drink it when I’m happy and when I’m sad…,” sets a fittingly celebratory and philosophical tone for the pages that follow.
The organization of the Champagne selection is logical and informative, moving from the grandeur of “Cuvée de Prestige Champagne” to the fascinating terroir-driven expressions within “Artisanal Champagne”. This structure immediately signals a program that appreciates both the iconic houses and the passionate vignerons shaping the future of this esteemed region.
Cuvée de Prestige
Under the banner of “Cuvée de Prestige,” one finds the luminaries: the venerable Veuve Clicquot with their La Grande Dame, the elegant Billecart-Salmon and their Cuvée Nicolas François, the stately Pol Roger’s homage to Sir Winston Churchill, and Philipponnat’s heralded Clos de Goisses. Charles Heidsieck’s Blanc des Millénaires graces the pages, as do multiple expressions from the revered House of Deutz, including their Blanc de Blancs Amour de Deutz. Krug, that bastion of Grande Cuvée, is represented with an impressive vertical of editions, alongside their heralded vintages and, for the truly devoted, even a half-bottle of the non-vintage benchmark.
The pantheon continues with Dom Pérignon’s celebrated vintages and the coveted P2, the ethereal Blanc de Blancs of Salon’s Le Mesnil, and Bollinger, showcasing their La Grande Année and the oxidative complexity of R.D., not forgetting the still red Pinot Noir from their Côte aux Enfants vineyard and the historic Vieilles Vignes Françaises. The collection from Champagne Taittinger is presented as a dedicated ensemble, featuring their Prélude Grands Crus, Les Folies de la Marquetterie, vintage offerings, and a deep dive into the Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne, with multiple vintages available, even in magnum format.
Artisanal Champagne
It is within the “Artisanal Champagne” section, however, that the true connoisseur’s heart might quicken. Here, the focus shifts to smaller producers, often working with single vineyards or embracing more hands-on, terroir-expressive approaches. The Montagne de Reims is well-represented, with the Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noirs of Adrien Renoir from Verzy, the celebrated Benoît Lahaye from Bouzy, and the refined Pierre Paillard, also with Grand Cru bottlings from Bouzy and Verzy. The inclusion of Egly-Ouriet, with their lauded Grand Cru Extra Brut and Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes, speaks volumes about the level of dedication to quality and provenance.
Venturing beyond, we find Chartogne-Taillet from the Massif de Saint-Thierry, Jerome Prévost’s singular Pinot Meunier from La Closerie, and the intriguing expressions from A. Lamblot in Petite Montagne. Roger Coulon’s Blanc de Noirs and Blanc de Blancs from Vrigny and Chouilly respectively, Frédéric Savart’s nuanced wines from Écueil and other prized sites, and the biodynamic philosophy of David Léclapart. Elise Bougy’s Blanc de Blancs from the hallowed terroir of Les Mesnil-sur-Oger further underscores the depth of this selection.
The Côte de Blancs, that Chardonnay heartland, is unsurprisingly well-represented. The inclusion of multiple disgorgements and cuvées from the enigmatic Jacques Selosse is a bold statement, a clear indication of a commitment to showcasing some of the most profound and thought-provoking wines of the region. Alongside Selosse, one finds the esteemed Larmandier-Bernier, the precise and mineral-driven wines of Agrapart, the Grand Cru expressions from R&L Legras, the elegant Yvonne Seier Christensen, Domaine Suenen’s terroir-focused bottlings, Doyard’s Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, Dhondt-Grellet’s esteemed cuvées, and Adrien Dhondt’s single-vineyard expressions from prized Mesnil sites.
Even the lesser-known corners of Champagne find their voice here, with selections from the Côteaux du Morin and the Côte de Bar, demonstrating a truly comprehensive and inquisitive approach to the region. The rosé Champagne selection is equally compelling, featuring both prestigious names and intriguing grower expressions, including the sought-after Rosé de Saignée from Emmanuel Brochet.
The presence of dedicated wine pairings, including the enticing “Because Everything Is Better with Champagne” option, further underscores the importance of vinous harmony at Jordnær. This is not merely a list of bottles; it is a carefully constructed narrative, a liquid tapestry woven to complement and enhance the culinary artistry unfolding in the kitchen.
In conclusion
In conclusion, Jordnær, under the exacting yet inspired guidance of Eric Kragh Vildgaard, offers a dining experience that is clearly worthy of its three stars. The dedication to sourcing exceptional ingredients and the chef’s masterful technique are evident. And the wine program, particularly its deep and thoughtfully curated Champagne selection, stands as a powerful testament to a holistic vision, where every element is considered in the pursuit of gastronomic perfection. This is a destination for those who understand that true culinary artistry extends beyond the plate, embracing the profound and often sparkling dialogue between food and wine. A pilgrimage to Gentofte, it seems, is indeed obligatory.
