Tasting note – Egly-Ouriet ‘Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes’

Here is an extensive article on the Egly-Ouriet ‘Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes’ Champagne. [read the full champagne story] 

Egly-Ouriet Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes: A Monument of Power and Terroir from Ambonnay

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You will find this champagne as lot no1 @ Wine o’clock Geneva #97

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In the elite world of Champagne, certain names resonate with a particular weight, signifying uncompromising quality, profound terroir expression, and a style that often transcends the region’s traditional boundaries. Egly-Ouriet stands firmly within this revered group, and its Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes cuvée is arguably one of its most emblematic and sought-after creations – a powerful testament to the potential of Pinot Noir from the legendary Grand Cru village of Ambonnay.

The Domaine: Egly-Ouriet – Masters of Pinot Noir

Founded shortly after World War II, Domaine Egly-Ouriet has risen from a respected local producer to an icon of the Grower Champagne movement under the visionary leadership of Francis Egly, who took the reins in the early 1980s. Located in the heart of Ambonnay, a village renowned for its exceptional Pinot Noir, the domaine champions a philosophy centered on several key principles:

1. Terroir Expression: The primary goal is to showcase the unique character of their vineyard sites, predominantly Grand Cru holdings in Ambonnay, Bouzy, and Verzenay (for Pinot Noir) and Vrigny (for Pinot Meunier).
2. Optimal Ripeness: Francis Egly pushes for physiological ripeness in his grapes, often harvesting later than many neighbours, believing this is crucial for complexity and depth, reducing the need for significant dosage.
3. Low Intervention Winemaking: While meticulous, the approach in the cellar aims to guide rather than dictate. This includes fermentation and aging in oak barrels (typically used, not new, to avoid overt oak flavour but gain texture and complexity) and extended lees aging.
4. Transparency: Egly-Ouriet is known for indicating the disgorgement date on its bottles, allowing consumers to understand the wine’s evolution post-disgorgement.

This philosophy results in Champagnes that are often described as “vinous,” possessing a depth, structure, and complexity more akin to fine Burgundy wines than stereotypical light and crisp Champagnes.

Deconstructing the Cuvée: Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes

Let’s break down the name to understand the wine’s essence:

• Blanc de Noirs: This translates to “white from blacks.” It signifies that the Champagne is made exclusively from black-skinned grapes – in this case, 100% Pinot Noir. Unlike Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay), Blanc de Noirs typically yields wines with more body, structure, and red fruit characteristics.
• Grand Cru: This is the highest vineyard classification in the Champagne region’s Échelle des Crussystem. Only 17 villages (out of over 300) hold this status, signifying exceptional terroir potential. Egly-Ouriet’s Blanc de Noirs primarily sources its Pinot Noir from their prime holdings in Ambonnay, one of the most prestigious Grand Cru villages, especially for Pinot Noir. This classification guarantees grapes of the highest potential quality.
• Vieilles Vignes: Meaning “old vines.” While there’s no strict legal definition, in the context of Egly-Ouriet, this denotes grapes harvested from vines typically averaging 40-60 years old or more. Old vines naturally produce lower yields of more concentrated, complex grapes with deeper root systems that better express the nuances of the terroir and are less susceptible to vintage variation extremes.

The Terroir: Ambonnay’s Soul

Ambonnay, situated on the Montagne de Reims, possesses south and southeast-facing slopes with chalky subsoils topped with varying layers of clay. This combination provides excellent drainage, water retention during dry periods, and optimal sun exposure for ripening Pinot Noir. The terroir imparts power, structure, and a characteristic broadness to the wines, alongside a distinct chalky minerality. Egly-Ouriet’s meticulous farming practices ensure these terroir characteristics shine through.

Winemaking Specifics: The Egly Touch

The production of the Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes follows the domaine’s rigorous standards:

• Harvest: Grapes are hand-harvested at peak ripeness.
• Pressing: Gentle pressing extracts high-quality juice, avoiding harsh phenolics from the skins.
• Fermentation & Élevage: A significant portion, if not all, of the base wine is fermented and aged in 228-liter oak barrels (barriques) for around 8-10 months. This builds texture, complexity, and micro-oxygenation without imparting strong oak flavors.
• Lees Aging: This cuvée undergoes exceptionally long aging sur lattes (on its lees in the bottle after the secondary fermentation). This period often extends to 70-100 months or even longer, depending on the base vintage. This prolonged contact with the spent yeast cells is crucial for developing the wine’s signature richness, creamy texture, and complex autolytic notes (brioche, toast, nutty nuances).
• Dosage: Reflecting the ripeness of the fruit and the richness gained from barrel aging and extended lees contact, the dosage (the addition of sugar solution after disgorgement) is kept very low, typically falling into the Extra Brut category (0-6 grams per liter) or sometimes even Brut Nature (0-3 g/L or no added sugar). This preserves the wine’s purity, minerality, and terroir signature.
• Base Vintage & Reserve Wines: While often technically a Non-Vintage (NV) blend, this cuvée is heavily dominated by a single base vintage (often clearly identifiable or stated). It incorporates a smaller percentage of reserve wines from previous vintages, adding layers of complexity and consistency.

Tasting Profile: Power, Elegance, and Longevity

The Egly-Ouriet Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes is a powerhouse Champagne known for its depth and complexity:

• Appearance: Deep golden hue, often with coppery reflections, indicating the Pinot Noir base and extended aging. Fine, persistent bubbles.
• Nose: Intense and layered. Expect aromas of ripe red fruits (cherry, redcurrant, plum), baked apple, citrus peel (orange zest), evolving into richer notes of brioche, toasted nuts (almonds, hazelnuts), honey, subtle spice (ginger, cinnamon), and a profound chalky minerality. With age, more complex notes of dried fruit, truffle, and sous-bois (forest floor) can emerge.
• Palate: Full-bodied, rich, and vinous, yet remarkably precise and energetic. The palate mirrors the nose with concentrated fruit flavours balanced by savoury, earthy undertones. The texture is often creamy and expansive, supported by a firm acid backbone and a driving minerality that persists through the long, powerful finish. Despite its power, there’s an underlying elegance and refinement.
• Aging Potential: This is a Champagne built for aging. While approachable upon release (especially after some decanting or time in the glass), it truly blossoms with bottle age, developing further complexity and nuance over 10-20 years, sometimes even longer.

Tasting Note Champagne Club by Richard Juhlin

Egly-Ouriet Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes (2016-base)

95(92)p

100 PN

‘This wine always belongs to the great dragons and is one of the champagne world’s foremost and greatest Blanc de Noirs. So also this time. However, it was not nearly as impressive from the start freshly disgorged and untouched together with the Egly family in the cellar in Ambonnay. Here, it takes 3–4 years before greatness hits the ceiling.’

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Significance and Reputation

This cuvée is widely regarded by critics and connoisseurs as one of the greatest Blanc de Noirs Champagnes produced today. It stands as a benchmark for:

• Terroir-Driven Champagne: It perfectly exemplifies the power and character of Ambonnay Pinot Noir.
• Grower Champagne Excellence: It showcases the quality heights achievable by dedicated grower-producers focused on their vineyards.
• “Burgundian” Style: Its richness, complexity, and use of oak barrels often draw comparisons to fine white and red Burgundy wines.
• Age-Worthiness: It defies the perception of Champagne as merely celebratory fizz, proving its capacity for profound development over time.

Food Pairing

Given its richness and complexity, this Champagne pairs exceptionally well with flavourful dishes:

• Roasted poultry (chicken, guinea fowl, duck)
• Veal or pork dishes, especially with creamy or mushroom-based sauces
• Seared scallops or lobster
• Truffle-infused dishes
• Rich pâtés and terrines
• Hard, aged cheeses like Comté or Gruyère

Conclusion

The Egly-Ouriet Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes is more than just a Champagne; it is a profound vinous experience. It represents the pinnacle of Pinot Noir expression from the Grand Cru terroir of Ambonnay, shaped by the meticulous, terroir-focused philosophy of Francis Egly. Its combination of power, depth, complexity, and remarkable longevity makes it a true icon in the world of fine wine, sought after by collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate Champagnes with substance, character, and soul. It is a compelling demonstration of what happens when exceptional old-vine fruit meets masterful, patient winemaking.

[photo credit – bagherawines.com]