Aging wine underwater is an ancient concept revitalized by modern winemakers who seek to harness the unique properties of the ocean for maturation. [read the full champagne story]
Estimated reading time: 5 minutes
This technique, particularly effective for Champagne and sparkling wines, has garnered attention from top producers such as Veuve Clicquot. In this article, we explore the origins, benefits, and challenges of subaquatic wine aging, with a special focus on Champagne.
The Emergence of Underwater Wine Aging
The idea of aging wine underwater entered the modern wine industry’s radar through historical discoveries. Shipwrecks containing bottles of well-preserved wine and Champagne — some over a century old — sparked curiosity among winemakers. The most famous instance was the 2010 discovery of 170-year-old Champagne in a Baltic Sea shipwreck, which revealed surprisingly well-preserved effervescence and complex flavors. Inspired by these findings, wineries began experimenting with submersion as a deliberate aging technique.
Why Sparkling Wines and Champagne Benefit from Underwater Aging
Champagne and other sparkling wines exhibit unique benefits when aged under the sea due to the stable, cold temperatures and high-pressure conditions. Here’s why:
- Consistent, Cool Temperatures: The ocean maintains a naturally cool and stable temperature, often between 4-14°C (39-57°F), preventing rapid chemical reactions that can degrade wine quality.
- Gentle Motion: The slow, rhythmic movement of the sea aids in the gradual integration of flavors and enhances mouthfeel.
- Lack of Oxygen: Submerged bottles experience significantly less oxidation, allowing wines to retain freshness and vibrancy longer than those aged in traditional cellars.
- Constant Pressure: Since Champagne bottles are already under high internal pressure, the external water pressure helps maintain equilibrium, potentially preserving the bubbles’ finesse.
Challenges in Underwater Aging
While underwater aging presents exciting advantages, certain challenges arise:
- Potential Contamination: While sealed bottles generally remain intact, prolonged exposure to marine environments could introduce micro-leaks, potentially affecting taste.
- Environmental Impact: Winemakers must ensure their aging practices do not disrupt marine ecosystems.
- Consistency in Aging: Unlike controlled cellar environments, natural underwater conditions can vary, making it harder to replicate results across vintages.
Although these challenges were expected, ongoing research and experimentation continue to refine the practice.
Surprising Characteristics of Underwater-Aged Sparkling Wine
Winemakers and tasters have noted several intriguing changes in Champagne aged underwater:
- Enhanced Creaminess: Many describe the mouthfeel of submerged Champagne as silkier and more delicate.
- Increased Complexity: Marine aging seems to encourage nuanced development, deepening autolytic flavors like brioche, almond, and minerality.
- Preserved Freshness: Despite extended aging, the wines maintain vibrant acidity and effervescence, a phenomenon that is not always guaranteed in traditional cellaring.
Leclerc-Briant Abyss: A Pioneer in Underwater-Aged Champagne
One of the most well-known Champagne producers embracing underwater aging is Leclerc-Briant with their Abyss cuvée. A biodynamic producer, Leclerc-Briant submerges their Champagne off the coast of Brittany, France, at a depth of about 60 meters. The results have been remarkable:
- Unique Minerality: The terroir-driven approach, combined with the marine influence, enhances the Champagne’s saline and mineral-driven notes.
- Soft, Refined Texture: Tasters frequently note a rounder, softer mouthfeel compared to traditionally aged counterparts.
- Expression of Biodynamic Practices: Since Leclerc-Briant follows biodynamic principles, underwater aging aligns with their philosophy of harmonizing with nature’s forces.
Their success further cements the viability of underwater aging, inspiring other winemakers to explore this innovative technique.
The Industry’s Perspective: Why Underwater Aging Matters
The interest in underwater aging aligns with the wine industry’s broader pursuit of innovation and sustainability. This method offers:
- A Unique Selling Proposition: As winemakers seek differentiation, underwater aging provides a distinctive narrative and marketing appeal.
- A Nod to Tradition: It revives ancient practices, linking modern winemaking to historical preservation methods.
- A Study in Alternative Maturation: As climate change affects vineyard conditions, alternative aging environments like the ocean could offer solutions.
Storage Recommendations for Collectors
For those lucky enough to acquire an underwater-aged Champagne or sparkling wine, proper storage is key:
- Immediate Enjoyment vs. Further Aging: While underwater aging preserves freshness, it is uncertain how well these wines will continue to evolve post-retrieval. Many experts recommend consuming them within a few years of purchase.
- Ideal Storage Conditions: If holding onto a bottle, maintain a stable temperature of 10-12°C (50-54°F) and store bottles horizontally in a humid environment to keep corks moist and prevent oxidation.
Final Thoughts on Underwater Aging
Underwater wine aging, especially for Champagne, offers an exciting frontier in enology. While further research is needed to fully understand the long-term effects, early experiments show promise in enhancing both texture and flavor complexity. As more winemakers explore this method, underwater-aged wines may soon become a sought-after niche in the fine wine market, offering connoisseurs a taste of the deep like never before.
Whether you’re a collector, a wine enthusiast, or simply curious about the depths of vinification, underwater-aged wines represent a fascinating intersection of science, history, and innovation.
