‘I belong to the group of people that believes that Bollinger above all shows its greatness in lighter and more elegant vintages as the inherent Pinot-driven masculine power they possess is always sufficient. In the grand generous vintages, one must fight hard to hold back the rumbling force and maintain freshness and sublime details. 2014 is a textbook example in the lighter category.’
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Estimated reading time: 4 minutes
The Champagnes
2014 Bollinger ‘La Grande Année’
61pn 39ch
Many champagnes from 2014 are simply too light, vague, and floral in nature, but this does not apply in any way to Bollinger La Grande Année. Here, they have beautifully navigated their way between the grains of the vintage and instead focused on its merits. The champagne is thus clearer and more elegant with a higher proportion of Chardonnay from Chouilly and Oiry than usual to include and embrace the citrusy and floral sides. The extremely intense aroma is otherwise dominated by a marked air of sea breezes, sea urchins, oyster shells, iodine and gunpowder smoke originating from Verzenay. There is also a light note of hazelnut and leather from Aÿ. The combination of these pillars and all complementary villages also gives a delicate fruit with hints of orange citrus, peach, and Mirabelle plum. The aromas come again in the fine and medium-bodied taste with an added note of the finest vanilla and fresh cep in olive oil.
Overall, this is an extremely beautiful and complex Bollinger on the finer and more elegant half of the whole. I love how you find new little details in a harmonious simplicity with each new sip. Fascinating and beautiful already, grand as R.D. in 10 years or more and without a doubt one of the vintage’s rare hits.’
94 (jan-22) 96p
2014 Bollinger ‘La Grande Année Rosé’
63pn 37ch
‘5% of the champagne comes from the house’s famous red wine location Côte aux Enfants in Aÿ, which in this vintage transforms La Grande Année quite dramatically. Personally, I would have liked to have seen a few more years aging before launching this rosé next to the more balanced white version. In recent vintages, I have preferred the rosé directly at launch with its slightly softer roundness and clear burgundy-like aromatics. This time there is also an impressive vinosity and power in the taste, but the Aÿ part in the bouquet unfortunately settles today as a lid on the beautiful notes of sea breezes and citrus you find from the start in the white edition.
However, I am not at all worried about the future but just urge you to keep your hands away until 2025 when its gastronomic power is integrated with the beautiful sublime parts that make the white edition so beautiful.‘
90 (jan-22) 94p
